Posted: 10/27/2008 at 12:26pm | IP Logged

One thing I would like to stress is to NEVER put more than 3 PSI in the logs when checking them. Several members have had their logs rupture from overpressurizing. If in doubt as to how to check them, best to head to a dealer and let them do it. If anyone has more input on checking logs or setting up a way to check them, please feel free to add to this discussion...

rickdb1 Admin Group Joined: 07/05/2008 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1301

Posted: 09/10/2009 at 10:32pm | IP 71.91.221.10 Looks like those links self destructed. This one may help out with the Schrader valve setup.. http://www.pontoonstuff.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3874&a mp;a mp;a mp;KW=Schrader+Valves __________________ Rick 2007 Bentley 200 Cruise Merc 90 HP 4 stroke St. Louis, Mo.

***The link in the post in the copied message, is now in this thread below of how to construct the valves.***

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 8:21am | IP Logged

As I am NEW to pontoons I have a question to ask about testing them.

I am told my 1986 Riveria Crusier with 24 ft logs that there are seperate compartments spaced evenly from front to rear on each log. Does this mean that a leak test will need to be performed on each & every section or will installing a fitting in just one location & applying air pressure be adaquate? At present there are no water drain plugs or test valves that I can find anywhere & this is why I ask for information. My boat has been sitting in the water for years & the logs are really dirty but based on the water line on each log which appears to be even on both logs, it doesn't appear to have leaked water inside but I know that is not a good indicator. Any inofrmation would be appreciated very much.

I will be stripping the entire deck off it next week & cleaning everything before I start the new deck. This would be the time for me to make sure my logs are not leaking & making sure everything is in good shape.

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 9:12am | IP Logged

   hey CGBosun;  wow!  talking to you would be like going to the horses mouth.  

    might as well ask my two questions here about water in the logs and easy check of pressure integrity.  i posted these questions in a thread, but have had no response

      1.   could water in the tubes be a collection of condensation?

      2.   could integrity be checked by removing a plug on a cold morning and allowing the tube to equalize for a few minutes, then replace the plug and wait untill the sun has heated the tube.  when the plug is removed at the heat of the day, there will be a great rush of air escaping if the tube is sealed.

       the way i came upon this was by accident.  when i bought our boat,  i drained both tubes.  i had about 5 gallons in the port tube, and about 2 gallons in the starboard side.  and that had me worried.  i kept an eye on the water line the first summer and did not notice the tubes sinking. any.  next spring i checked the tubes again and had about half a gallon in each one.  so i quit worrying.

       this winter when i was rehabing mine.  i did the cold/heat thing and was pleasantly surprised to hear the whoosh of air  what say yee, matey?

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 12:45pm | IP Logged

Captain,

If you hear air escape when you take the plug out it means you do not have a leak. The air would have escaped in the hole when pressure built up if you had a leak. I have a small leak on a top seam on one log and although it does not leak water it cannot hold air pressure until the hole is sealed.

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 12:57pm | IP Logged

      floridatoon - -    thanx for the affirmation.  i was pretty sure this would be an excellent way for anybody to check their toons.  i do not know how much pressure would be generated, but it would seem to be a good way to check without having to do the schrader valve and air compressor check.  not everyone has the air compressor.  i do not have a schrader valve, but that should be a nominal priced item. 

       now - - -   what about the collected condensation.  findiing water in the tube could be that and not a leak.  like i said. i got about 5 gallons when i emptied the tube when i bought it.  but have never had more than a half gallon per season since.  which i have considered acceptable.     thanx

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 9:09pm | IP Logged

Captain,

The pontoon must have been left in the water a lot to get that much condensation. I trailer mine so I really do not even have water when I open up the valve. If I open up tha valve in the morning I do not get the whoose sound but if I do it in the afternoon after it has been in the sun I also get that sound.

Posted: 03/28/2009 at 9:59pm | IP Logged

    floridatoon; 

        wish i had tasted the water the first time i drained the tubes.  i do not think it was salt water anyway.  no sign of barnacles or bad corrosion on the tubes.  mine only sits in the water during vacation.  that's about 3 weeks worth of time a year.  the rest of the time it's trailered.   your cool morning- warm afternoon air surge will be affected by whether you acclimate it at the cool stage or the warm stage.  then open the plug at the opposite temp.  i did it the reverse one afternoon to double check and you could tell the air was rushing in to the tubes the next morning instead of rushing out.  maybe those peoples without an air compressor could use the idea.  gotta do it during spring or fall i guess, to get the greatest air temp. difference.  i don't know what the minimum temp. difference would be. 

Posted: 03/29/2009 at 9:02pm | IP Logged

perhaps the same amount of condensation is the reason i only get about 1/2 gal. or less each season.  i do not know anything about the previous owner except he did not take very good care of it!  and i do understand the pres./temp thing.  i guess when i was thinking condensation collection, i ws relating to the gas tank.  but the gas tank has a vent hole that constantly lets in moisture laden air.  and that would be what causes the accumulation of water there.  i got in this thread to pass on the tip of checking the tubes integrity with the temp. difference instead of the compressor and schrader valve.     do you think the brief amount of time i have the tubes open to check and drain allows enough moisture laden air back in to start the cycle over again?  thanx for the input,      dave

Posted: 03/30/2009 at 8:10am | IP Logged

and the temperature difference has to be at least 10 degrees for the condensation to form on the warm side of a cold surface.  that's what i remember my A/C guy saying.  and that was 20 years ago.  but i have halfsheimers, and don't mind being corrected!     wonder how much it would cost to fill the tubes with air from the dive shop?   LOL  that would get rid of the problem. 

Posted: 03/30/2009 at 10:08am | IP Logged

'   

     naw charles;  wasn't recommending blowing it up.  just replacing the regular air with scuba air.  the air that goes in the scuba tank has most all the moisture removed.  i'm not saying air pressure, just dry air to begin with.  it was actually sort of a jest.  heck, you would have to vacuum it down like they do A/C lines, before filling them with the dry air. 

Posted: 03/30/2009 at 5:48pm | IP Logged

A good way to check the helium theory would be to buy a tank of helium at wal-mart. Put it in a tank of water with a little weight. Mark you water lines. Let all of the helium out, add the weight back and check your water lines.

Sound good anyway

Posted: 04/11/2009 at 2:29pm | IP Logged

I have not used JB Weld to seal holes in pontoon logs but I have used it on many other applications over the years. The important thing to keep in mind is make sure the area you are applying it to is clean & dry. Let it dry thoroughly & then you can sand it smooth.

I tend to beleive there is not enough pressure buildup inside the logs to blow out the JB Weld once it's dried completly. Any thoughts from anyone concerning this? I have no idea what the pressure buildup is on a normal  basis. I would think that depends on many different factors.

Posted: 11/14/2009 at 1:37pm | IP Logged

Here's what one member did to repair his logs

sctoon Senior Member Joined: 06/11/2008 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 47	Posted: 10/18/2008 at 8:31pm | IP 66.153.238.79   have gotten to a point that I'm not sure what to do , I have found a large number of 'pen Holes' in the logs by adding air, and soapy water to the out side, I was thinking of getting some sheet stock and trying to form it around the logs and then weld it up, have tryed the  repair stuff and it works on holes but not to good on where it had corrosion.not sure if worthy it, even after i have gotten new seats, floor,carpet, console etc.... __________________ Stevie South Carolina 1988 Sun Tracker Bass Buggy 75 HP Force
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sctoon Senior Member Joined: 06/11/2008 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 47	Posted: 11/24/2008 at 9:28pm | IP 66.153.238.79 have gotten new sheet metal and getting it formed to fit around logs  about a 1/3 the way on the bottom, will try and get it welded over the next week or so, hope that this is not a lost cause, so wanting to get it put back together Has any one ever had to do this to this extreme before? looking at  raping both logs from end to end, the weight add is only about 100 lbs, will try and post pics of log repair. __________________ Stevie South Carolina 1988 Sun Tracker Bass Buggy 75 HP Force
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sctoon Senior Member Joined: 06/11/2008 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 47	Posted: 12/17/2008 at 4:20pm | IP 71.14.186.23 new skins put in place side profile, also what I'm trying to repair the holes as they are **Enlarged pics** Edited by rickdb1 on 12/17/2008 at 6:34pm __________________ Stevie South Carolina 1988 Sun Tracker Bass Buggy 75 HP Force