Posted: 02/20/2009 at 10:12am | IP Logged

Quote: I've done the search and found a few posts about underskinning but I was wondering if you have to run it all the way down the bottom of the boat. I've noticed that the only splash I get is maybe the front third of the boat. Anyone here done it?

This question comes up at least every two months and we've got lots of topics with replies regarding it. Try reviewing the search of the forums regarding underskinning just click the link, then review each one. But a short answer is I would probably (as I will eventually) do it from front to back, leaving a inch opening on either side next to the toons for drainage (don't want the water trapped).

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 10:46am | IP Logged

You really need to do the whole thing. You'd be surprised at the amount of water that hits toward the stern, since it sits lower in the water. Probably the best investment I've made in my toon yet. Much smoother ride and it has to lengthen the life of the deck..

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 11:29am | IP Logged

My Playcraft is underskinned. I am intimate with its installation since a large section came loose and dragged under the boat while backing out of the slip - ouch!!!

The sheets are attached to the crossmembers using SS pop rivets.  The sheets are creases to fold down at a 45 dgree angle near each outer edge to lay snugly against the side of the U-shaped pontoons, leaving an opening at each end.  The skin runs full-length fore and aft.   My boat is very stern-heavy with a separate engine pod, upper sundeck and 2 big gas tanks in the stern so teh skin needs to go all the way back. I'll try to get a picture or two this weekend.

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 11:38am | IP Logged

I took some of the leftover sheeting and just cut some pieces for the sides. Just screwed them in to the tube brackets. Don't really know if this step was necessary, but it seemed like the right thing to do. Good thing is, if I need to get to the wiring or steering cable (which is all above the starboard log), I have easy access by just unscrewing a few screws on the sides.

Without sides:

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 12:06pm | IP Logged

And these are the screws I used..

http://www.teksupply.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ts1_hardware_fa steners_2;1f5bb38c.html

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 12:21pm | IP Logged

GSBosun.... I have PC as well and noticed this the other day.... was thinking extending the underskin all the way to the front... your thoughts?????

I will post pic of my underside ( of the boat) lol... and see if its the same

what year is your boat and did you have pic of it??? always curious for pics of other PC boats

Posted: 02/20/2009 at 1:19pm | IP Logged

Rick,

I can't install my own underskinning(for several different reasons).  Where would you go to get it done?  A sheet metal shop or a boat repair shop?  Air conditioning shop?  I don't have a clue. I've never dealt with sheet metal before.

Posted: 02/21/2009 at 9:36am | IP Logged

Greetings from Texas, where 25-40 mile an hour wind gusts have suggested to me that 'the Floating Backyard' is best left in the slip today. Question about underskinning: I see a lot of info about how it smooths the ride, but I am curious what the extra weight might do to the speed of the boat. We have a  25 ft Crest with a 90 HP Johnson and even with 7-8 people on board we can ski / wakeboard off it. If the speed were to be so cut down so that that could not be done, there would be mutiny and  then a hanging (this is Texas after all)! 

Any input would be appreciated! 

Posted: 02/21/2009 at 5:18pm | IP Logged

Rick,

If you had overlapped the plates an inch from back to front would that have saved drilling and screwing holes to half? Also with the buckling of the side plates if the plates were an inch wider and had the inch bent 90 degrees would it help from buckling?

Posted: 02/21/2009 at 6:12pm | IP Logged

They are overlapped a inch. I simply drilled through both sheets and shot the screws in. But I also put a screw on the single side too. I did double up screws all the way down on the crossmembers, but I only wanted to do this once and the screws are cheap enough. And yes a 90 degree bend would have stiffened the sides up, but I didn't have a sheet metal break at home and it's some pretty stiff stuff to bend by hand. Plus I had just enough metal left over to do what I did.

Posted: 02/23/2009 at 1:04pm | IP Logged

eaglase;

My toon is  a 1993 model, prior to the fire at the plant in '95 that destroyed all previous records (of course). The underskin is factory original.  The skin begins at the second crossmemember back from the bow.  That does not seem to affect anything, since the spray rails on both toons keep the water off that area.

Working on the pictures since she's back in the drink again - yay! just got to get that  engine fixed!!

Posted: 03/10/2009 at 2:15pm | IP Logged

CGbosun,

thats interesting.... I wonder if mine are factory.... i will post a pick of where they start and how they run... I think that mine start at the 3rd crossmember, but will have to check....

anyhow... I was wondering if the udnerskin would protect from the spray and I can use other pressure treated plywood for the floor... no matter for the replacement later... i wonder....

Posted: 03/21/2009 at 3:20pm | IP Logged

After reading about the underskinning what is the best thickness of aluminum to use, may have missed this in one of the post.  Thanks   Ronney

Posted: 03/21/2009 at 3:37pm | IP Logged

.063' 5052 aluminum. The 5052 grade is for marine use, it resists corrosion the best. quote I found in an old post.

Posted: 03/21/2009 at 5:44pm | IP Logged

Does seem thick doesn't it. Darren, Rick, what did you guys use? Anybody else?