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Subject Topic: kartracer28 rebuild project!!! COMPLETED Post ReplyPost New Topic
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eaglase
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Posted: 05/29/2009 at 1:46pm | IP Logged Quote eaglase

Lets see, lets see!!!!!!

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eaglase
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 10:01am | IP Logged Quote eaglase

i have everything to put my console together... question... what is the best way to cut the console... something that you do not want to mess up!!!!!!!!!  cut the material and then use a jig saw???? something like that??? and ideas are helpful!!!!

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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 12:21pm | IP Logged Quote Scottbee

I'm sure there are other opinions... but... I've got an attachment that basically turns my Dremel into a Roto-Zip.  It works great in situations like that (as I'm sure a true Roto-Zip would).  I also used it to do my window cutouts.

I lay down masking tape first (assuming I'm not cutting through a vinyl overlay).  That helps a little bit with the burrs, but the larger reason is that it eliminates any scratches or marks that the Roto-Zip base might leave.


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kartracer28
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 8:41pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

THE FIRST THING TO KEEP IN MIND::::: MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE  someone sent me this when I started on my console. I used a air body saw made by JET Tools #JSG-0822 it has a very thin and long blade. Like you eaglase, not wanting to mess up, I cut out a template first. I also make the template a little smaller than the actual size, this way I could trim as needed.



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kartracer28
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 8:47pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

When cutting the hole in console and flooring for steering cables etc. how do you decide where it should go.  Thanks   Ronney

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briankinley2004
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 8:51pm | IP Logged Quote briankinley2004

Measure twice and cut once lol. I just sorta eyeballed mine and checked underneath to make sure nothing was interfering. As far as the steering box in the console I used the bezel and experimented until I found the right place. Then I marked the center hole of the bezel where the steering shaft comes thru and used that as a starting point.

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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 8:13am | IP Logged Quote Scottbee

Weird.

Wasn't there another thread from like ... I dunno.. maybe yesterday... regarding cutting holes in the console?

I remember replying.... giving suggestions about how to cut the holes, and now the thread appears to have disappeared.

Or was it all a dream?? 


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kartracer28
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 8:21am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Scottbee,, You are right, I found the other tread this morning,it is in the rebuild section. Both ' eaglase' and I are about in the same time frame in our rebuild. I have asked some question in the other thread that may be you could help with!!!! Thanks   Ronney

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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 8:29am | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Moved all the posts related to your rebuild to your rebuild topic so people don't get confused. If its related to the project, then asked in this rebuild thread.

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Scottbee
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 8:37am | IP Logged Quote Scottbee

Ahhhh!  Gotchya!

Thanks WCD.  I thought I was losing my mind (yet again!)


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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 1:08pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Yep, it gets confusing with a rebuild underway and they ask questions about something related to it all over the place , besides, we know others will come along with something similiar (and have many times) and its easier to find it in a rebuild thread than searching thousands of other topics just to find that one piece. Which by the way, if someone finds that post in which someone showed how they cut the vinyl, remove some padding and then cut the hole for the guages and such, show me the url and I'll review it and see if its suitable for a sticky topic.

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kartracer28
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 6:10pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Does PS offer two different thickness of fence risers? I bought a set and with 28 oz carpet I had to put two on each bolt to lift the fence any. Did not have enough, ordered a second set and got some almost twice as thick as the first set. Now I have to unbolt the fencing to installed the thick ones so that the height will match.

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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 7:44pm | IP Logged Quote pritch272

Kartracer28, I got the thick ones as well, a little thicker than the ones I took off.  The only issue is the redeck kit forces you to have 2 people as the nuts are nylon lock, no way I can hold one end while tightening the other....

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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 8:40pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Must be the way your rub rail is designed. On mine, I just take it off and the fence bolts are easily accessible.

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kartracer28
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 9:01pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

WD how do you know where to drill the holes for the fencing if the rub rails are not on????  I  can also agree with 'pritch272', some what,  about the locknut's. I used an air ratchet and had some trouble.

 



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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 10:38pm | IP Logged Quote peppyjd

I third pritch and kartracer.....even with another person, the locknuts gave me grief.  

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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 11:06pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

I put all the fencing on, and loosely bolt it together, then square it up on the floor, my fence already has the holes, so I just drill through the existing holes, put my boat through, put on the nylon locking nuts, and with my cordless drill with a nut driver, and a wrench on the other end, tighten them up but not all the way until all have been clinched up some, then go back around and tighten them all down. My rub rails then go on, but on some boats that's not possible. But I didn't have a problem wth my drill/nut driver. Wrench on top, nut driver on the nut except in a few spots where that wasn't possible. I also have what I think they call wobble shanks, allows me to be slightly off center, like a universale joint on a car/truck. Some of you have the rub rails that tie in with the fencing, so it makes it that much harder.

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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 7:30am | IP Logged Quote Bamby

  I'm not sure it's the lock nuts that you are really having a issue with. Stainless steel nuts and bolts, and aluminum too for that matter have a real tendency to gall together as you run the nuts up the threads to tighten them. Some grades of stainless are better and worse for this problem. The best prevention I've found is to put a dab of neversieze on the end of the threads before starting the nuts. Sometimes galling will be light and allow a person to run the nuts on up and tighten, but you also risk stripping the screw head in the process. Remember just a dab of neversieze on SS nuts and bolts will resolve most issues with fastener fustrastions.
 Gregg






   

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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 3:26pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Bamby,, thanks for the advice, I did have the galling problem also. It seems if you use a high speed tool you have more problems.  Ronney

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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 5:11pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Just came into my office after doing a little work on the toon,,,BAMBY IS RIGHT  used a little never sieze on the bolts and no galling even with an air ratchet.

Edited by kartracer28 on 06/02/2009 at 2:08am


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Posted: 06/02/2009 at 2:07am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

DO I REALLY NEED A FRONT GATE????? Is there any real season to have a front gate. I have about a 24 inch front deck.

 



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Posted: 06/02/2009 at 6:02am | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

I don't have one on mine, trolling motor would be in the way.

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/02/2009 at 8:08am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Thanks WD !!!!

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/02/2009 at 1:48pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

I have put all new S/S nut and bolts on my rebuild. Should I put some type of coating on them to keep from rusting. If so;;;; what???

Thanks  Ronney



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Posted: 06/02/2009 at 1:56pm | IP Logged Quote darrklim2

If their stainless steel they won't rust.

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 11:07am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

I have the Ultimate Switch Panel from PS, see post above for pic page 2, and the Pontoon Boat Wire Harness. The switch panel has a switch for courtesy lights but no plug on the harness. Panel also has a switch for Bilge but no plug on harness. Harness had plug for aerator no switch on panel. DID I ORDER THE WRONG HARNESS !!!!  What can I do !!!!

Edited by kartracer28 on 06/03/2009 at 11:09am


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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 11:22am | IP Logged Quote Bamby

 I really doubt that your harness is actually wrong. All boats are in some since unique in their layout. On a pontoon boat the navigation lights for instance are standardized but your courtesy light /s could be installed anywhere on the boat. It would be virtually impossible to prewire a harness that would fit every application. You'll probably need to purchase some wire and pull it for your more or less custom lighting and application needs.
Gregg  

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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 11:28am | IP Logged Quote eaglase

did you get the wiring harness from here???? i got this one and it has everything for the switches.... seemed like it was perfect.... check it out....

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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 11:37am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Will I have switches that can not be used, as there is no wiring on the harness .Like the Bilge switch since there is no plug on the harness for bilge, will this switch be dead and unuseable. If there was a plug on the harness for bilge  I could use it for something else. The switch would just be labeled wrong.



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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 11:52am | IP Logged Quote conunuu

I bought the same switch panel and harness as you.  I originally planned on using the bilge pump switch to control my aerator.  When i got to looking at the harness I realized that the brown wire that controls the bilge pump coming from the swtich panel, of course, was located in a different spot on the 12 pin connector than the brown/orange wire for the aerator is on the pontoon wiring harness.  So what I did was buy a pin extractor from here and pulled the pin from the harness out and relocated it to the correct location to connect with the brown wire from the switch panel.  I also didn't think about the fact that the pontoon harness doesn't have courtesy lights.  I wanted to keep the 12pin connector on the switch panel intact and still use it for my courtesy lights, so instead of cutting the blue wire before it reaches the connecter it took the extra connector that comes with the switch panel that is designed to tie in with a factory boat harness and used my pin extractor to pull the blue wire jumper out and installed it into the pontoon wire harness.  Then I just had to crimp my own wiring on and tie into the ground.  This way I didn't alter the switch panel at all and it controls everything.  I hope all of that makes sense   I'm ready to help if you need it


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