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Subject Topic: kartracer28 rebuild project!!! COMPLETED Post ReplyPost New Topic
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rickdb1
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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 3:56pm | IP Logged Quote rickdb1

Pre drilling a small hole and using a hammer drill sinks them right in. When I started, I did try running some in without the pilot holes, but found the self tapping screw tips strip out easily or they wind up just breaking altogether alot of the time. Didn't take more than 10 screws or so before I got the other drill and a bit out..



Edited by rickdb1 on 06/15/2009 at 5:05pm


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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 4:35pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Good info to know for my next year project (when more money might become available). Thanks

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 5:06pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

I am using the self tapping S/S 1/4 X 1 inch Hex Head. I dip each screw in a cup of Tap Magic before drilling, seems to work great so far. I have found doing this project that working with S/S nuts, bolts, and screws that a little LUBE of some sort seems to help,,,, Tap Magic for drilling or tapping and Never- Seez for nuts and bolts. JMO  

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rickdb1
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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 5:36pm | IP Logged Quote rickdb1

Good info. Never heard of it before. Sounds like just the ticket for running in a bunch of screws without pre drilling.

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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 10:01pm | IP Logged Quote judgepw

There used to be some stuff called Akempucky that really helped lube a screw.  Don't know if they make it any more.

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Posted: 06/15/2009 at 10:07pm | IP Logged Quote rickdb1

Still around Judge..

Here



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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/16/2009 at 7:48am | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

  

36 Gallons Of Fuel , Batteries Switch and Stern Nav light, also going to build fencing around rear deck

 

Courtesy Lights Led White for behind pilot station and red in front

 

Side gate courtesy lights also have the same on the front gate

My helper with the underskinning, jack and 2 X4, with the toon lifted this high makes it very easy to work on.

***resized pics per request***



Edited by kartracer28 on 06/16/2009 at 1:02pm


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Posted: 06/16/2009 at 1:02pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

So you liked my idea of LED courtesy lights ehh , and looks good too.

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/16/2009 at 1:03pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

YES I DO !!!!!! Thanks WCD

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/17/2009 at 12:40pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

DL;;;; HAVE AT IT,

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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/20/2009 at 3:45pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

I could not cut the sheets to the correct length because of the way the braces bolted up. Had to put a 1 inch flat bar to close the gap.



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Posted: 06/20/2009 at 3:57pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

As you can see even with the 1 inch flat bar I still had a sizeable openning,,,, If I was to do it again I would have the alum. bent with a press brake to fit from floor braces to top of logs.

If you look close you can see the 1 X 1 angle I put to close the gap

Material used .090 # 5052 Alum sheeting, over 200 1/4 X 1 S/S Tek Screws and a WHOLE LOT OF ELBOW GREASE   Total cost $350.00 - $400.00  W/ LABOR;;;PRICELESS



Edited by kartracer28 on 06/20/2009 at 3:58pm


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Posted: 06/20/2009 at 5:30pm | IP Logged Quote dahogman

You are gonna love that underskinning.  Great job,  I left a small opening right along side the toons on one that I underskinned to allow for drainage.  If you leave a opening right along side of the toons the water is not a problem as it doesn't deflect off the toons in that area.  I also had a 45 bend put in that trea on another boat to deflect water down and away.  either way will work and I think you will be just fine.  The thing to remember is that you are not waterproofing, you are simply deflecting the water away. 

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Posted: 06/20/2009 at 5:47pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

dahogman;;; Thanks for the thought of DRAINAGE,,,, I do have a very small spaceing near the logs that I was going to seal with silicon, but now I will just leave it open. I guess I was trying to waterproof!!!!!!!! Thanks Again   Kartracer

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Posted: 06/22/2009 at 7:35am | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

That's what dahogman recommended and its generally the standard that's been promoted on this site even way before I came here 2 years ago for underskinning projects.



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Posted: 06/26/2009 at 5:15am | IP Logged Quote pritch272

That really looks sharp, I like it!

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Posted: 06/26/2009 at 5:05pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

DL;;; I am from oilfield country, If a little will work a whole lot will do much bettter. Is see most people use .063 so I used my oilfield degree Kartracer

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Posted: 06/30/2009 at 9:06pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Fresh water shower



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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/30/2009 at 9:08pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28



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Posted: 07/07/2009 at 12:36pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

 4 Months:::: back on the trailer and WAY OVER budget. Waiting for the motor to be installed in a week or two. 



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Posted: 07/07/2009 at 10:04pm | IP Logged Quote briankinley2004

Don't feel bad. I think most of us run behind and over budget. It will be worth it!

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Posted: 07/08/2009 at 2:14pm | IP Logged Quote eaglase

whats a budget???

kart.... i really like that fresh water shower.... what does the top of that look like.... I am planning using an L shaped seat for the back of my boat and thought of shower or portapotty in the space that is left.... just curious... good pics by the way



Edited by eaglase on 07/08/2009 at 6:18pm


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Posted: 07/08/2009 at 2:52pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Have you got the shower because you didn't want to take one with gators down there?

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Posted: 07/08/2009 at 7:58pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

eaglase, I also have  L shape seating in the rear. The shower is a changing room from another dealer. The shower head and controls from Eba $20.00. gallon water tank, pump from motor home. I will take complete pics in the AM and post. I am having a alum pan made for the shower floor, so carpet does not stay wet, with a through floor drain. The porta potty will also set in this pan,

 

Charles;;; YOU ARE DARN RIGHT;;;; With gator skins not worth very much on the market now a day . Gators are all over the place, Looking at one as I type in the Bayou, or as some say CANAL. LOL



Edited by kartracer28 on 07/09/2009 at 4:29pm


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Posted: 07/09/2009 at 11:04am | IP Logged Quote captain58

 

   porta potty in the floor drain, that'l save walks to the pump station, just don't let the EPA people catch ya'!  hope my bride doesn't see your shower, that would be another project.  that's the best part of a pontoon boat, you don't have to play 'pioneer' after all the upgrades are done.  nice atouch!!  good boating



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Posted: 07/09/2009 at 4:28pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

58;;; Porta Potty, will not not drain in the floor pan, it is self comtained as I am sure you know, just sit in the pan, only shower water will flow into the floor pan

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Posted: 07/11/2009 at 5:35pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Eaglase:: Hope the pics help with your decision



Edited by kartracer28 on 07/11/2009 at 5:45pm


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Posted: 07/11/2009 at 5:36pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

Water tank and pump for the shower



Edited by Wildcat Dude on 07/11/2009 at 6:41pm


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Posted: 07/11/2009 at 5:39pm | IP Logged Quote kartracer28

 Just can not get top to look right!!! Any Advice Please



Edited by kartracer28 on 07/11/2009 at 5:45pm


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Posted: 07/11/2009 at 6:52pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

If that's the same top I got from PontoonStuff with the bars (both front and back that they no longer sell), then it appears you don't have enough tension on the back and front, those front bars have adjusters, shorten the bar one notch and try again so it makes it tighter. Can you take a close up shot of those bars, it looks like you have adjusters front and rear where mine is only on the front and the rear is fixed height.

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