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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/17/2009 at 7:32pm | IP Logged
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Today I decided to start the teardown, here are before and after pics:
Before:
and after:
I'd like to relocate some items, thus will have holes to plug. What is a good way to plug holes? Or should I replace the plywood? It's 24', so I suppose 6 sheets would do it. If I do replace, hopefully it's not too much.
I know I'll probably need a new steering cable and assemble, what about the throttle? I'm moving the helm towards the center and up toward the front about 18' or so.
If I can plug holes, and I keep the existing deck, I will replace the carpet. I pulled up a corner to see it:
Looks like the carpet is leaving something on the deck, if I try to pull it up, it takes the wood with it, so don't want to do that... It's probably the old glue... Once it dries, can I just go over it with new glue and carpeting?
Advise please, this is a first for me.
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Pritch-
Martinez, GA
2002 SmokerCraft 824 Infinity Fish Pontoon
2002 90 HP Johnson,
Lowrance LMS-160 Map
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mman3187
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Hey Pritch....looks like you have a good project on your hands. It is hard to tell from just one pic but it looked like the wood was pretty wet and warped. Since you are that far down I would sure give serious consideration to replacing the wood while your at it. You will also save a lot of weight. I would be suprised if the wood was bad already...but it depends on how that previous owner used/stored/maintained the boat.
Welcome aboard!!!
Mike
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Wildcat Dude
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| Posted: 05/17/2009 at 9:08pm | IP Logged
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Pritch, I took the liberty of renaming your topic as its easier for folks to identify your project and you already know we'll give you any advice/input you need  I agree with Mike about your wood, it looks awful wet and wrapped.
Edited by Wildcat Dude on 05/17/2009 at 10:19pm
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Charles - TN
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briankinley2004
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| Posted: 05/17/2009 at 10:07pm | IP Logged
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Here is a method we have used to plug holes. Im sure Woodentoon or another master carpenter has one thats better. Screw a new piece of plywood larger then the hole over the hole. Drill/cut a bigger hole through BOTH pieces. Save the 'plug' or cut out. Screw another permanent piece of plywood (you could use metal) under the hole. Now glue the plug (which should fit like a puzzle piece) in place. If you want you could add corrugated fasteners.
As far as the wood replacement and carpet gluing there are some sticky threads at the top of the forums that discuss this in more depth than you probably want. Good luck on your rebuild!
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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/18/2009 at 5:15am | IP Logged
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Mike M-
It's been stored outside for 7 years, after 5 years the cover was trash, and the seats were not the best- tried to clean them up, but it got worse. We finally got a boat shed, so now we are redoing it.
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Pritch-
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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/19/2009 at 7:35pm | IP Logged
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Well, I have decided to rent an orbital floor sander to clean up the existing deck after scraping the old glue up. It's about $38 per day, far cheaper than replacing the all the wood, I'll replace any that is needed, as well as to plug any holes, I should be fine, but I'll know for sure when I clean it up. That is the goal for this next weekend. The boat should be dry, and if the weather is nice, it will be a reasonable goal.
Recommended treatment after clean up and before putting glue down with new carpet?
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mman3187
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| Posted: 05/19/2009 at 11:41pm | IP Logged
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Well, sounds like the $38 investment is a good plan you will know after that. If you buy marine plywood you should find it in the range of 70-85 per sheet. The treatment after will depend on how dry the decking is. Mine was waterlogged and I don't know how long it would have taken to eventually dry out. I trashed it. If you deck is nice and dry you might as well seal it with some sealer after a prime coat. Especially the edges. I look forward to seeing you finished project. Good luck.
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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/24/2009 at 8:40am | IP Logged
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Well, things have changed some.
First, it looks like the storage facility did something about all the water and mud entering the boat shed, woohoo!
It's more like a garage than a shed:
Now on to the project. I swung by HD on the way to pick up a scraper, and they recommended a heat gun to soften the glue, so I picked one up.
As it turns out, I would be there scrapping for a year, here is a what it looks like trying to get the carpet off:
So, guess what? Yep, you guessed it:
A factor in my decision to replace the decking is that it's 8' wide and not 8 1/2' that I initially thought, which means I can get it locally (I think) rather than having to pay well over $200 freight to get it from pontoonstuff.com.
Going back up today to get the remaining decking off. Getting this stuff off is also a royal pain, seems they are 'glued' to the cross members (only at the 4' points, thank goodness).
Questions- What to treat the new decking with? Do I treat both sides? Once treated (if treated) do I lay the new carpet before putting any holes in?
I'm still planning on moving the location for the helm, I'll probably get a replacement steering system from pontoonstuff.com once I finalize the helm location- my next question concerns the cables for the throttle / shift linkage- can I just get longer replacements for the new location? Any recommendations on where to purchase the replacement cables? I did not see them on pontoonstuff.com.
OK, getting ready to head back up to finish removing the rest of it. I'll check back in later.
Edited by Wildcat Dude on 05/24/2009 at 1:25pm
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| Posted: 05/24/2009 at 1:28pm | IP Logged
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Don't forget that local treated isn't the same as what PontoonStuff is. What you'll get will eat up your cross members, screws etc.
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Charles - TN
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pritch272
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What I am going to get local will be special ordered and is supposed to be marine grade, is that different than what is sold by pontoonstuff.com? When I talked with them on the phone they noted I should be able to get it locally. Or are you referring to 'local treated' as just plain pressure treated wood?
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| Posted: 05/24/2009 at 4:12pm | IP Logged
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Make sure its CCA and not anything else.
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Charles - TN
93 Voyager 20ft
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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/24/2009 at 6:37pm | IP Logged
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Will do. How about the other questions I posted, do you have any advice for me?
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rickdb1
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| Posted: 05/24/2009 at 7:19pm | IP Logged
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Hi Pritch. You won't need to treat the plywood with anything if it's the correct kind (CCA). And yes you can get longer replacement cables at the link below..
Cables
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pritch272
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rickdb1 wrote:
Hi Pritch. You won't need to treat the plywood with anything if it's the correct kind (CCA). And yes you can get longer replacement cables at the link below..
Cables |
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Thanks, Rick, that was exactly what I needed.
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pritch272
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| Posted: 05/25/2009 at 6:50am | IP Logged
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Here is where I left off yesterday.
Next step is to get the new decking in. Also need to get the 'tar' strips for the cross members where the decking joints are.
Question: Does this 'tar' material also go 'in' the joints?
Question: Which is better to attach the decking to the cross members, flat head bolts or self-tapping screws? I found a combination of both when I took the old decking off.
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pritch272
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Sorry for all the questions-
What's the difference between the Stainless Steel Deck Bolts and the Zinc Plated? Or, which is better? The price is $10 more for Stainless Steel, does that imply the better product to use?
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Always, zinc will eventually rust, stainless won't and no the tar doesn't go between the joints. Make sure you square up your tubes before you lay the first piece of wood on and keep rechecking. I was going to use bolts on mine initially but there wasn't enough room plus you'd need to drill the appropriate bolt holes. With those big screws, just a small pilot hole makes it go much quicker. Just need a good stout drill driver that can torque down and they will definitely torque down and grab. You'll find that by tapping the sheets up tight, you wont really have a gap and any seam will be filled with glue during the rolling process. Which also includes the slightly recessed screw heads.
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The joint tape (tar strips) goes on top of the crossmembers before you install the plywood.
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pritch272
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Well, my local source for decking fell through- seems it was marine grade but not cca treated, and it was $100 per sheet at that. Called another place, same story, but $1 cheaper at $99 per sheet-
Just called PontoonStuff (Josh) and with extra shipping it's about $101 per sheet. ($65 per sheet for 6 sheets, and $211 shipping), it was a no brainer. Josh also hooked me up with a carpet kit with the best carpet for cheaper than I expected, all of this will be here in time for me to get it on the boat this weekend- Things are moving right along (money included...)
A quick question for the Wildcat Dude- the tubes should have stayed at the position they were in before I took the old decking off, they should not have moved, unless you think they might not have been straight to begin with- some pointers on checking would be appreciated....
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They might not have been straight to begin with also there is potentially some settling that can happen when the plywood is removed, even though it never left the trailer. The best way to check is to measure diagonally across on both sides. Using the same point on each side as a guide.
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Yep, that's why you make absolutely sure its squared up before and after each piece of wood get put on. Did you read somewhere where we talked about measuring from corner to corner of the frames (X configuration) and see if they are the same distance across? If not, you'll need at least 2 guys who can bump the toons hard, and keep measuring until you're about 1/16th of an inch or closer. Put the 1st piece of wood on - don't screw it down tight yet, put measure your corners again, make sure frame hasn't moved, put the next piece down, measure, if good, tighten down the 1st piece of wood and move on, each time measuring and taping the wood together with a rubber mallet to get the sheets tight together.
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Pritch---I would go with the self drilling screws rather than bolts. It will seriosuly cut down your installation time. The screws are so easy if you have or rent a heavy duty electric drill. They go through the aluminum cross beam like butter. Otherwise you have to drill a hole for the bolt, and you have to crawl underneath for the nut.
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Yep, or have a 2 person team, one on top drilling, putting the bolt through and with a rachet, start tightening when the person on bottom puts the washer, nut and puts a wrench on it and holds it. But the screws will do just as good a job and much easier, less room than bolts need.
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pritch272
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Good info here- I understand the X measuring, just do not know how I am to 'move' the toons if they are 'in' the bunks 'on' the trailer.
Going with the same 8 deck bolts (6 on the front 2 foot piece, 1 each on the rear left and right 1 foot pieces) and the remaining will be the self-taping deck screws. Should I pre-drill for the self-taping deck screws?
Edited by pritch272 on 05/27/2009 at 3:40am
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Just predrill a small pilot hole through the wood itself, not the crossbeam. Then use the screw. Also helps if you snap or draw a line across the wood where the crossbeam is that you want to secure the wood to.
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The toons will move I promise you, just a person on opposite corners bumping it simultaniously will move it 1/8 to 1/16th of an inch at a time and that's all you need for aligning it. That's how we did mine on the rebuild and it was on the trailer the whole time and the tires had to be blocked to keep it from moving. Good tip Jenn, on the predrilling as thats how we did it too. As for the bolts, why use any at all?
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There is another way to hold your toon to square and it may stay there. I often use this method when attempting to do things by myself. Take two ratchet binders (straps) and hook on opposite corners X, just snug them up at first. Carefully measure corner to corner and adjust tension on straps as necessary until you bring it into square. Just make sure you run straps under cross members so you can leave them in place until you're done decking.
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Excellent suggestion, that'll earn you an 'Attaboy'.
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Charles - TN
93 Voyager 20ft
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Are you talking about measuring the crossmembers XtoX or are you referring to the 'eye hooks' welded on the ends of the logs?
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Measure across in an X pattern like this. The red line needs to be the exact same as the blue line.
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PontoonStuff Forum : Pontoon Rebuild Projects
Topic: pritch272 2002 SmokerCraft rebuild (
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