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Subject Topic: pritch272 2002 SmokerCraft rebuild (Topic Closed Topic Closed) Post ReplyPost New Topic
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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 05/27/2009 at 4:00pm | IP Logged  

Crossmembers since the wood needs to be square on the crossmembers which should be squared.

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pritch272
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Posted: 05/28/2009 at 5:34am | IP Logged  

ok, 2 more questions-

I was just reading another thread where somebody said to leave a 1/8 inch gap between the sheets of decking for expansion ... true or not?

Also, when it comes time for re-wiring, should I consider waterproof flex or just run it bare and strapped down?  I'm leaning toward the latter....


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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:54am | IP Logged  

Thats because of the material they used, so it doesn't apply in your case. As for the 2nd question I haven't a clue what you mean . Are you by chance referring to split tubing to encase your wires in for a neater look? If you are, then this is what I'm putting on the boat now. Its available at any home/auto hardware store.

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pritch272
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Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:20pm | IP Logged  

ok, thanks.  I was thinking of that split flex material- thinking that it may trap water and not dry out as quick as wiring not protected by the split flex.

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Posted: 05/28/2009 at 7:48pm | IP Logged  

Well since the wiring does have a protective coating on it, it would be better to protect it from chafing/rubbing on something eventually exposing a wire to rust/shorting etc.

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pritch272
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 9:37am | IP Logged  

Is it better to lay the carpet prior to cutting holes?  or does it not matter.



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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 11:08am | IP Logged  

Yes, lay it first. Then you can put the fence up and put the furniture in place and mark the locations for your holes.

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pritch272
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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 9:19pm | IP Logged  

Thank you for your always very timely replies!

Ordered wood from PontoonStuff on Tuesday, and I received if Friday (it was here Thursday), my son and I took it up to the shed on Friday evening, cleaning the cross members and putting the tape on, and staging the wood on the boat so I could come back today and not have to do too much moving of it.

The boat measured square to within 1/16 of an inch, I dry fitted all the sheets before starting the 1st screw, glad I did as I was an inch off at the rear of the boat.  With the rubber mallet and a bit of time, I was able to get 90% of the deck ready for securing.  Then secured all 5 sheets, then cut the 6th sheet for the 2' front piece and 2 ea 1' rear pieces.  Still need to bring up the jig saw tomorrow and cut the 2 corner curves on the 2' piece and will be ready to secure the final pieces.  Laying the carpet tomorrow as well.



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Posted: 05/30/2009 at 9:51pm | IP Logged  

Pics, you know we love to see pics of progress

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pritch272
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Posted: 05/31/2009 at 5:37am | IP Logged  

Pictures?

OK, here's a picture toward the latter part of the day, you can't really tell but the 6th sheet is at the rear on top of the 5th sheet-



Here I've just cut 2' off the 6th sheet (right side of pic), and working on tracing out the 2 end pieces (left side of pic), I'm using a cordless circular saw (Ridgid, lower right in the pic):



Here's the last picture taken yesterday-  I cut the 6th sheet up for the 2' front piece and as you can see the 2 pieces for the rear which are about 1' wide.  They aren't secured yet.



Not sure if you can tell in the 1st pic, there are a lot of places in the wood where oval shaped pieces have been inserted to replace blemishes, knots etc.  I didn't expect to see so many of them, that side had to be the 'A' side as the other side had knots which were somewhat recessed, so that wouldn't be good to be on top.  Here's another pic showing this:




ok, here is the reason that I layed everything out before putting the 1st deck screw in-  I was going to just start by placing the 1st piece and securing it before moving on to the next, but when I started measuring, things didn't mesh-

Here is where I was measuring, from the end of the cross member:



Don't measure from the end's of the cross members, but instead from the center line of the pontoon tube itself- seems the cross members are not placed uniform in respect to the pontoons, so measure from a point uniform to the pontoons.  Here is a pic showing this, in my case, I used the bolt which seemed uniform on both sides:



Now, on the rear I found that the center line of the pontoon is directly under the hole in the cross member, so I used that for reference:



It was at this time that I found one side was 11 inches and the other was 10:



I made an 'across the board' adjustment (no pun intended), with the rubber mallet.  Took about 30 minutes to tweak the final placement, but I was glad I hadn't started securing anything until all was positioned.

Here are a couple of 'side' shots for front to rear alignment-





The Ridgid drills are very handy-  I used one for pre-drilling the wood, and the other for driving the deck screws-  I bought the tools several years ago (Dec 2003), actually a combo set that came with 2 batteries and a dual charger, and an extra drill set that also came with 2 batteries and a single charger, for 4 batteries.  They (Home Depot) had a clearance on a pair of hi-capacity batteries a couple of years ago, so I have 6 batteries total.  I keep the single battery charger in the truck so I can charge wherever I am, while the dual charger stays at home on the work bench.  I've not had any trouble at all with the tools (batteries included).  I bought the job site radio a year or so ago as well.  Here I'm plugged into the generator (you can see the genny under the tailgate of the truck in an earlier picture in this thread) to run the battery charger, fan, radio and shop vac. 



ok, that's about it for now.  Heading back today to finish attaching the front and rear pieces, and to get the new carpet down.  Maybe I can get started on putting the railing back also, we'll see.  Gotta say that PontoonStuff.com is very accomodating, got everything to me quickly and accurately.  I've been working with Josh, and because of how I am being treated, there is no question where I'm purchasing everything else from.  Their prices are competitive, customer service outstanding, need I say more?

Later.




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pritch272
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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 4:11pm | IP Logged  

Continuing on, here's some pictures from Sunday:

Loaded up, ready to go:



First order was to finish up on the front 2' piece:



Next were the 2 end pieces:



Then it was clean up and get started on the carpeting:



Ended up having about 4' extra, enough to carpet the rear sundeck...



Decided on the 7799 Corona Burgundy color, after all, it is Georgia and plenty of red clay, thought this would help.



Had a fun time gluing down the carpet, it would have been better with some help, but I managed.  Here I've trimmed and started putting the edges back on.





Got the truck unloaded, and the railings on deck...



Trim completed at the rear...



Starting to look like a boat again...





Sorting out the old hardware....



That's enough pictures, yes?

Next, need to finish attaching the railings, if you get the re-deck kit from PontoonStuff, you will need 2 people as the nuts are nylon locking, unless you have really long arms...

Will order the replacement furniture for delivery by the end of the week, next weekend will be to start getting that done, once a final helm location is set, will be measuring for replacement steering cables and throttle linkage cables.  The goal is to be done and back in the water by the end of June.

Later.



Edited by pritch272 on 06/01/2009 at 4:13pm


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scbadiver
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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 4:38pm | IP Logged  

That is really looking nice! Thanks for all the pictures. You should be proud.

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Posted: 06/01/2009 at 5:14pm | IP Logged  

Yep, I can see on yours how that would be really hard to fasten the fence bolts.

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Posted: 06/03/2009 at 5:34am | IP Logged  

Ordered all the furniture yesterday for delivery by the end of the week, as with the previous interactions with PontoonStuff.com, Josh accommodated my requests with the utmost in professionalism and proficiency. 

 

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Looking like a pontoon again...it's coming along!

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Posted: 06/06/2009 at 8:06pm | IP Logged  

Well, resumed working on the boat, got a late start, got started about 1PM.

I brought our youngest son to help with the bolting down of the railing- his first question to me was why couldn't I reach over with a phillips to hold the deck bolt while ratcheting the other end....  he's about 6'5' or so, so he could do that on some but not all....

So the 1st order was to secure the deck, and of course I decided to use all brand new spacers that were provided by PontoonStuff with the redecking kit-  that didn't work out so well, the front gate was cockeyed like crazy...  got to looking at the old spacers and saw that they were 2 different thicknesses and neither were the same as the new ones, so I went back to using all the old spacers.  Good thing I didn't toss them.

Finally got all the railing secured after perhaps 2 hours, a pain trying to get the holes drilled for the inside deck bolts (those on the outside edge were fine as the trim metal had holes where I needed to drill through the deck).

Done with the railing, start to get the partial load of furniture off loaded ...

Here's me waiting on boxes from my son who was unloading the truck (notice the stocking feet to keep the carpet clean as we've had a lot of rain and mud loaded with that red clay.




Here's our son starting to unload.



Here are some shots on where I'm thinking everything should go.

Standing center looking to the rear, thinking of putting a fishing seat right where the boxes are:



Notice the right rear the hole for the gas tank filler, the tank is supposed to go in that corner, but I kind of like the openness, something that I'm trying to achieve- so now, what are my options for a different fuel tank?  Perhaps a smaller tank behind that center area (see last picture in this post)?  Maybe a below the deck tank?  I don't need a 24 gallon tank, 10 - 12 ought to be plenty.



Standing at the rear looking forward, going to use a fishing seat for the driver, going to put a recessed table hole smack dab between the bench seats and the 2 fishing seats (driver and center rear):



Standing at the front gate looking rearward, moving the helm toward the front and centered as shown with the face in line with both side gates (shown open at 90 degrees):



Should allow plenty of free space to move around the helm with the gates closed.
Another shot showing the openness in front of the helm.



Here's a shot looking behind the center panel where the battery and oil tank live, looking for fuel tank placement options.



Looking for any advice on fuel tank options so I can keep the open spaces at the rear.

Received the remainder of the furniture order this afternoon, so tomorrow will be to get the rest of the furniture set up, then will need to finalize so I can measure for replacement steering and throttle/linkage cables, and place a final (hopefully) order with PontoonStuff.com.

Until tomorrow.



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Posted: 06/06/2009 at 8:54pm | IP Logged  

What's the measurement of that open area between the fence wall and the transom front bracket and your fence height? If the fence is 18in or 20in high, you could go with a 16 or 18in high tank that depending on measurements could be equal to 12 gals I suppose. Then you could cover that top section between the ends with a piece of ply covered in carpet.

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 6:40am | IP Logged  

If I use that area for 2 batteries, 1 oil tank and perhaps a 6 gallon marine tank, are there any considerations that need adherence, for example, making sure the batteries are in sealed battery boxes located near the fuel, etc.  It would be great if I could put the batteries and oil tank for the bottom layer, then build a platform just above them for a smaller fuel tank- if the batteries were in boxes would this be ok?



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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 8:29am | IP Logged  

pritch,,,, LOOOOOking GOOOD   Did you use the 28 oz. carpet??? Is it just me;;;; BUT it sure looks like everyone is going to Burgundy rather than Blue now a days.

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 10:29am | IP Logged  

I don't see how you'd have room for all that in that space. A 90hp motor isn't going to go very far on 6 gals unless you're idling everywhere because the moment you WOT, you'll soon be outta gas. So why not just go ahead and enclose the horseshoe area, build up enclosures within the horseshoes to hide the batteries on one side and gas tank, oil tank on the other. So either loose the horseshoe areas of modify it and have raised casting platforms there with hinged lids for access. But if you come up with something, I'd like to see it if it meets your goal of openness. So what were those dimensions?



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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 11:16am | IP Logged  

Good idea on the fuel tank Rick.  Couldn't he mount the batteries under the console?  Then use a plug for external charging?

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 11:17am | IP Logged  

Yeah, and having the batteries in their boxes although you'll know they're there, still won't take up a lot of room

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 11:55am | IP Logged  

hmmm, you all are giving me some ideas, who says the batteries need to be at the rear....  getting ready to head up for todays tasks, will check back in later this evening.

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 12:18pm | IP Logged  

kartracer28 wrote:
pritch,,,, LOOOOOking GOOOD   Did you use the 28 oz. carpet??? Is it just me;;;; BUT it sure looks like everyone is going to Burgundy rather than Blue now a days.


Yes, that is the 28 oz....

Limited colors, didn't want blue, didn't want anything really light, would have gone green again but that wasn't available.


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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 12:24pm | IP Logged  

Starting battery should be near the starter, otherwise you'll need a really stout battery cable to carry the juice without carrying the excessive heat generated through the wire. It was one of the reasons I burned up a starter when I had them midship before.

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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 12:34pm | IP Logged  

Yup, like WCD said, if you're going to relocate the starter battery make sure that you have battery cables that can handle the task.

Welding cable is an excellent choice and it can usually be had at a very reasonable price if you know where to look.  You'll need to properly terminate them.. but frankly, that's not all that hard either.




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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 2:49pm | IP Logged  

One like this would probably fit pretty good.



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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 9:28pm | IP Logged  

OK, I'm back-

Today didn't quite go as I had expected, things didn't fit as well as I had thought they would.

First, I replaced the front 50' seats with 50' seats and bought the left and right hand arm rests to replace the old ones.  They don't fit the radius #1, and #2, they are about 1' wider than the old, so in order to close the gate on each side, you have to pull the arm rest away from the corner to get the 50' in enough to allow the gates to close.





So I'm going to have to do without the arm rests.



I'll see if I can find some cup holders to hang from the rail.

Next, my thoughts for a rear center fishing seat would be ok if I had some more room-  there is no way without cluttering it up, and I'm trying to free up.



Also, notice the corner of the seat, the plastic corner guard was off and there's a tear in the vinyl underneath, I'll need to repair that somehow.  I don't think I did that, I was very careful unwrapping it.

Bought all slider pedestals for all the fishing seats- I thought I had to get the slider to get the swivel- not so, the standard pedestal not only is adjustable up and down, but also swivels.  It doesn't say swivel unless you drill down, so I'm thinking the only one I really need to slide would be the driver seat, the 2 fishing on the front would not need the slider.

I'm not really liking the helm that I bought, it's ALL hard plastic, but not the smooth kind, but the rougher kind, just like the seat bottoms.  Somehow, I am thinking it will get dirty looking very easily, looks difficult to clean, especially when fishing. It's wider than I really wanted, but the one I wanted that matched the furniture design would not support a front mounted throttle/shifter control, only a side mounted control, so I went with this.  I'm disliking it the more I look at it, I think I'll have to get the one I originally wanted, even if I have to purchase a side mount control (not having good luck finding any so far).

Plus, the gauge panel will not fit anywhere unless you put it right front, right where the throttle would need to go.... so you would have to mount the gauges separately...





What's that flat section on the front?  Nothing came with it that would go there.... as I said, it's not growing on me at all.

The day wasn't a total bust, I do believe that I learned in school that the shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line, so rather than run the steering and throttle cables on top of the toon until it needs to make a 90 degree turn to the center of the boat (forcing me to have to buy new longer cables), if I only run on top of the toon for 2 feet then run straight to where the hole needs to be, then I can use the existing cables.  Now, here's the question- is there anything wrong with doing this, and should I drill through the cross members to route the cables through or is it ok to strap them to each of the 4 cross members that have to be traversed?



Will drilling holes large enough for the cables weaken the cross members significantly?

I did manage to get the ladder cups installed on both sides of the boat.



Oh, the size of the area behind the horseshoe is 33 x 13.5, here it's 10.5 (+3 for the measure)



So 15 should come to the outer edge of the metal (which is the width of that tank at *web site linked earlier* that was referenced earlier)

Hey, I like the idea of putting the batteries under the rear seats...  I suppose I could always install some louvered vents...  The suggestion earlier with the arrows is also an option- could make a carpet covered wooden box-

Appreciate any and all thoughts....  anywhere I can find a side mount throttle/shifter assembly for a 2002 Johnson 90 ?

Thanks....

***site removed to not give advertising to them***

Edited by Wildcat Dude on 06/07/2009 at 9:38pm


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2002 SmokerCraft 824 Infinity Fish Pontoon
2002 90 HP Johnson,
Lowrance LMS-160 Map
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rickdb1
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Posted: 06/07/2009 at 10:34pm | IP Logged  

I would not strap the steering cable to the crossmembers. You never know when a chunk of wood or other object will travel under the boat and rip the cable out. You can drill through the crossmembers with no problem. The problem I have with batteries in the seats is possible corrosion to anything that you would store in them from the battery acid vapors. Side mount controls are avaiable on ebay regularly. I'll see if I can dig one up in a few..

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2007 Bentley 200 Cruise
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