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 PontoonStuff Forum : Pontoon Rebuild Projects
Subject Topic: pritch272 2002 SmokerCraft rebuild (Topic Closed Topic Closed) Post ReplyPost New Topic
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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 7:04am | IP Logged  

Nope, you supply them, see robbsracing post regarding screws, we talked about it there.

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Charles - TN
93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 10:52am | IP Logged  

Charles do you remember about what page. I am about to do the same thing and would like to know what others did.

I found the part in Rob's post about the bolting of the seats to the base but not to the deck. thanks for the help  !!!

Kartracer



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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 10:56am | IP Logged  

Basically just use stainless steel wood screws is what I used, just don't screw it through the raised channels as that would block the drainage under the seats.

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93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
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rickdb1
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 11:22am | IP Logged  

On my boat, the wood screws are fairly large that secure the plastic bases to the deck. There is one in each corner and they're about 3/16 inch in diameter X 1 1/4 inches long. They also have a large washer on each one (Similar to a fender washer). Also, anywhere that one seat meets another or an armrest, they are screwed together with two of the same screws and washers. All are stainless of course.

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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 11:42am | IP Logged  

Thanks Rick, I forgot to mention the large washers.

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Charles - TN
93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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pritch272
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 7:24pm | IP Logged  

Thanks for the feedback for mounting the seats-

On the new remote, (I'm liking this remote already):

Got the handle moved to the other side on the remote, decided to leave the trim-tilt switch on the right-end- seems others driving the boat did not realize that they were pressing this switch on the old control, this will keep it away from unsuspecting thumbs...



So, I think I'll mount this with the key switch slightly pointing down, that will lessen the angle that the cables will need to make to do a vertical drop to the floor.  The task for this weekend is to mount the seats, the new remote and associated cables.  Also need to strap down the gas tank and to finalize the battery and oil tank placement.

 


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Pritch-

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2002 SmokerCraft 824 Infinity Fish Pontoon
2002 90 HP Johnson,
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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 7:28pm | IP Logged  

Looking good

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93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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kartracer28
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 7:31pm | IP Logged  

Pritch,,,Mounted my seat today with 1/4 X 1 Hex Head Tek Screws and fender washer,,, WORKED GREAT  Kartracer

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pritch272
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Posted: 06/25/2009 at 8:34pm | IP Logged  

Thanks, Kartracer!

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Pritch-

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2002 90 HP Johnson,
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mman3187
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Posted: 06/26/2009 at 12:54am | IP Logged  

OK, am I looking at the picture of your controls wrong...it looks like you have to activate the trip up and trim down with your pinky, not your thumb?  That would take a little getting used to.  Sure is a nice clean looking setup though. 



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pritch272
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Posted: 06/26/2009 at 5:09am | IP Logged  

That's correct Mike-

I can move it to the thumb side, but then it would be easy to press accidentally by those who do not realize it's there-  I'm the only one I want to be trimming the motor, and I'll do it awkwardly, but at least it will not be pressed accidentally by others who just grab that handle and squeeze-

Maybe I'll rethink this and move it, not sure, depends on how easy it it to be accidentally pressed.


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Pritch-

Martinez, GA

2002 SmokerCraft 824 Infinity Fish Pontoon
2002 90 HP Johnson,
Lowrance LMS-160 Map
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pritch272
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 4:45am | IP Logged  

Next up, getting the new remote cables routed, had to put holes in the cross members underside again, what a pain, it was so hot, could only do 2 holes at a time, then stopped for a break, then go at it again, until all were made.



A little dry fitting...



The holes...




Couldn't finish mounting, thought I needed cotter keys, which I had at the house, but had them all along with the new hardware, didn't bother to check.  I also needed to make something to beef up the mounting with.

Needed some way to mount the fuel tank, at least for the upcoming weekend, decided to use a piece of the old decking...



Found a spot for the oil tank...



And the battery, too...



That was it for Saturday, it hit 100 degrees ...


Sunday wasn't much better, 97 degrees.

Here are the backings for the remote, made from plastic from the old seats:



And the completed mounting:



Time to make sure it all worked:



Worked fine, a little tight, just need to get used to it.

Here's hoping I can leave the tops up when putting it in and out of the boat shed:



Although I don't have the rear material on yet, it looks promising.  I had to pull the boat home to retrieve the frame for the rear bimini, 21 miles each way.

Next weekend is fast approaching, final items before we start pulling tubes, etc is to get the rear material on, bolt the seats down, mount the fishing seats, maybe install the new stereo-

I did not connect the tach and voltmeter, was going to, but something about setting a switch on the rear of the tach to the specific motor alternator that I have caught my eye, so I didn't know what setting to use so I left it alone, any thoughts?  I'll have to call PS today and ask.

That's all for now.








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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 7:33am | IP Logged  

Should be 6P

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93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 7:42am | IP Logged  

Looking goof on the finishing touches. I was working on the wiring for my jon boat this weekend and yep, 107 both days (HOT HOT). Pulled the boat under a tree for some relief (oh thank ye for the little wind that did blow some)   I managed an hour at a time before I was soaking wet and couldn't see with the sweat in my eyes or looking like I was crying on my glasses. 

Boy that thing just did fit under that roof with the top up didn't it.   One thing I noticed though, have you checked to make sure you can tilt that motor up and turn side to side without that piece of wood obstructing travel? I sure do like the looks of that remote control. Looks high tech (and I like high tech looks ) except on vintage cars of course. Boat is looking really good Pritch.



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93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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pritch272
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 1:58pm | IP Logged  

Yes, I moved that motor every which way- that wood is a temp solution anyway.

The switch is for cylinder count- makes sense, I have a V4 so it's 4 for me.


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rickdb1
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 3:07pm | IP Logged  

Pritch, the switch on the back of the Tach is for alternator 'Pulses', not cylinder count. Since your engine has a 12 pole alternator, you would divide that by 2 and set the switch to '6P' as Wildcat suggested. If the tach you have only has settings for 'Cylinders' on the back, then it won't work on your motor..

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pritch272
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 7:42pm | IP Logged  

Well, someone needs to enlighten PS...



I'll keep a look out for the 6P...

Thanks-



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pritch272
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 7:43pm | IP Logged  

DLCulbertson wrote:

Great install on the throttle - looks factory to me .  Thanks for all of the pics.

Dave



Thanks, Dave, I appreciate that.


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pritch272
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 8:37pm | IP Logged  

Decided to get in another 2 or 3 hours after work today-

First I just had to know for sure if I can leave the Bimini tops up...



Looks like about 4 inches clearance to me.  Woo Hoo!

Then I finished screwing down the seats, putting the cushions on, and installing the front fishing seats.



I wiped them down with 303, they shine, yes?

That's all for today.




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Wildcat Dude
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Posted: 06/29/2009 at 8:57pm | IP Logged  

YES

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93 Voyager 20ft
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Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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Slow Joe
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Posted: 06/30/2009 at 2:44pm | IP Logged  

Pritch,

That boat is looking fantastic. You've done an excellent job.



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Posted: 06/30/2009 at 5:36pm | IP Logged  

Hey Pritch, yes I'll say they shine! You had better hang on when you sit down, or you may slip right off and land on the floor. The toon's looking great!!



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pritch272
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Posted: 06/30/2009 at 6:23pm | IP Logged  

Thanks for all the positive comments.  

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pritch272
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Posted: 07/06/2009 at 7:40am | IP Logged  

Had a good day on the water Saturday for the 4th.  Spent a few hours pulling the tube(s) around and used only a little more than 1/2 a tank of gas.  It sure was nice to have a shed right there to drop it without having to take the tops down and put a cover on it.

The remainder of items to be done can be done at a more leisurely pace, the drive to get the boat water ready by the 4th was aggressive, and it was a good point to get to as now we can use the boat anytime while we finish the project.


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Posted: 07/20/2009 at 4:03am | IP Logged  

Decided to get back working on the boat-

Installed (but not wired in) the switch panel:




Next it was putting the table bases in:





And then the mount for the trolling motor...



I'm going to make use of that flat beam against the back wall...





It's (the beam) a good 8 inches wide and about 88 inches up from the floor- I need a place to put the rafts when we aren't using them, so I'm going to put a shelf that spans the width of the shed (13 feet 7 inches) extending from the back wall about 5 feet 6 inches.  I've  got the plywood that was removed from the boat to use, so all I need to do is to frame it up.  The height of the shelf will be just about perfect to slide the raft's into and out of the boat while on the boat.

So, that will be the next todo so I can get them out of the way.  It will also come in handy to put hooks on the underside to hang all the life jackets, so we only need to take what we need.

I am really loving this shed.

Edited to replace symbols with verbal descriptive text, like feet, inches, etc.



Edited by pritch272 on 07/20/2009 at 4:32pm


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Posted: 07/20/2009 at 7:18am | IP Logged  

and as long as you been here and you still using symbols for ft and inches when that doesn't work on the forums .  88ft ehh   Pritch, got a question about that switch, gauge panel and harness. What do the connectors look like on the harness and panels? Had somebody pm me about that and I don't have a clue as I used EZACDC's harness and switch panels and they show what the connectors are like on it.

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93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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pritch272
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Posted: 07/20/2009 at 4:33pm | IP Logged  

WCD, yeah, sorry about that, I've made appropriate changes.

Next time I'm up at the shed, I'll get the requested info on the wiring.


Edited by pritch272 on 07/20/2009 at 4:34pm


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pritch272
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Posted: 07/26/2009 at 5:10pm | IP Logged  

ok, here's the wrap up for this weekend-

Saturday started on the framing for the 6 foot (take note, wcd...) by 13 foot 7 inch shelf some 88 inches off the floor....  Nothing is attached to any walls, but the frame is firm against both walls, it is not going anywhere short of a tornado.






The truck makes a good place to cut the old decking..., stick the edge under the fifth wheel hitch edge and it hold just fine.



Stopped working on the framing and started thinking about the mini-sundeck that will need to be made... although it will be a little short and nobody will actually get up on it.  I have some left over carpet that will eventually cover it.  I wonder if there is something to go on the edge to dress it up ?  Does anyone have any ideas?




Brought out the jigsaw...



And this pretty much took care of Saturday, again, it was pretty close to that 100 degree mark- 




Now for Sunday.  Bought a couple more 14 foot two by fours to add to the framing.

Grabbed another couple of scrap pallets, want to keep any stuff off the floor, so when it rains a lot and the water comes in whatever I have will be out of the way.



Pulled the boat out some for some working room.



Added the second two by four for some extra strength, sandwiched a couple of short four by four pieces between.



Here's how it looks with the old decking on it from the bottom side-






Backed the boat back in, just enough clearance...



Here is how it looks from up on the boat, will make it really easy to get to the rafts and what not. 






WCD, I promised you some pictures of the wiring for the switch panel ...







Well, that is all for this weekend, it is way too hot to be working too long, it was 96+ degrees today as well.




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Posted: 07/26/2009 at 7:26pm | IP Logged  

Well the main connector is almost the almost the same, and it looks like bullet connectors to accessories is that right? (orange and black wires) So it won't connect up to EZACDC stuff, thanks as that helps me answer others who ask.  Like what you did with the storage arrangement, but I bet it was hotter than blue blazes in their without any wind blowing good inside that unit.

Edited by Wildcat Dude on 07/26/2009 at 7:28pm


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Charles - TN
93 Voyager 20ft
84 Johnson 115HP
68-77 USAF SP-K9 Vietnam 69 & 70
Retired Detective 94
www.ezacdc.com (for wiring)
www.backtoboating.com (good stuff)
www.boatingseats.com (seats)
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peppyjd
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Posted: 07/26/2009 at 9:10pm | IP Logged  

wow, that is looking really cool pritch...lots of hard work in some major heat!

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