Posted: 07/12/2009 at 9:55am | IP Logged

Looks to me like a gray tree frog like this one

Posted: 07/14/2009 at 10:50am | IP Logged

Two Questions:

1.  Does anyone have good pictures of how they mounted their control box to the side railing and how they routed the shift/throttle/harness?

2.  Does anyone know a place to get a wood grain blank panel for me to use to install my gauges?  I will get the EZACDC ultimate panel and want it to match as close as I can.

Posted: 07/14/2009 at 12:15pm | IP Logged

On the side railing, my suggestion is to use something like Aztek (1/2 in at least) thick as it works like wood but doesn't rot. Screw it to the top railing and the next railing down (measure yours as I'm not sure if there's any standard to it) then mount your remote to that block of material. The reason why is because there really isn't a good way to actually mount the controls to the railing itself. Some remote have 2 bolts (like mine) some have 3 like my Force (using QuickSilver Commander 2000 controls), no two bolts line up, not even on my OMC controls.

For gauge panel blanks, you can try Great Lakes Skipper as they have these blank panels http://www.greatlakesskipper.com/products.cfm?CatID=SS677 and here's some on ebay 

Posted: 07/14/2009 at 5:56pm | IP Logged

I was planning on using some stainless (or aluminum) plate and do as you said, but I'm most curious about how best to route the cables as mentioned above.  Are they secured to the rails going down with cable ties?  Are they running through the floor via a hole or a notched cut-out.  I was hoping someone who'd done it could post a pic or a detailed description.

As for the blank panel, I think I'm going to forego it and just mount my gauges directly to the console when I get it.

Posted: 07/19/2009 at 4:11pm | IP Logged

Got down to the ranch today to get some more work done on the toon.  I got all the remaining wood off and undid all the wiring from the gauges so they'd go back as easy when I get the new console. 

Next step is getting the boat off the trailer.  Once it's off, I'm going to commence cleaning then pressure test for leaks.

Now for the advice:  I'm assuming it's best (certainly easiest) to do all the wiring I can with the deck off, correct?  Someone who's done this a bunch please weigh in.

I'm going to get a new harness and install a new switch panel on the console.  I'm going to reuse my guages.  I'm going to install a stereo and speakers.  I'm going to add LED courtsey lights to some of the furniture.  I'm going to reuse my horn.  I'm going to replace the two running lights in the front and the clear one in the back.  I'm adding docking lights in the front.  I'm going to have a trolling motor up front.  I'm going to have a fish finder/GPS.  I'm going to have a 12v cigarette plug.  I'm considering adding an inverter for a TV or something like that.

Based on what I said above, is it best to string all that wire out prior to setting the deck down and just leave enough wire to take it through the bottom when I determine exactly where the things are going?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm getting to that point that I'm really going to have to do a lot of pre-planning to maximize the efficency of my time spent working on it.

Posted: 07/23/2009 at 7:50pm | IP Logged

I've read a LOT of posts regarding everyone's paneling and wanted to ask the question:  Does the vinyl really look good in place of the paneling or does it bend easily showing lots of dimples/creases, etc.?

If I decide to go with it, do I remove my paneling all together and replace with the vinyl or do I cut in sections and only place OVER the water-facing areas?  My paneling is held in on each end with a riveted strip of aluminum.

I really wanted to sand my panels and have a body shop spray them but my buddy quoted me 8 hours of paint time for $580.  That's more than I was really hoping to spend if you know what I mean.

Ideas and thoughts?

Posted: 07/27/2009 at 12:01pm | IP Logged

Went back to the ranch in the heat on Saturday to get the logs cleaned up so I could start pressure testing.

I'm going to stop now and rant on the unbelievable product I used to clean called 'Alum-Bright'.  I tried it vs. a gallon of Toon-Brite I had and there was absolutely no comparison.  I wet the logs and sprayed the Alum-Bright on and it foamed for about 3 minutes then I washed it off.  No scrubbing, no anything.  I was stunned!

Here's what the logs looked like before:

Here's the after.  Literally, this was a total of 5 minutes worth of 'work'.

Here's a shot of the Alum-Bright section (on the right) vs. the Toon-Brite section (on the left).  It took 3 treatments of Toon-Brite to get even close to the one section of Alum-Bright.

I went back yesterday to start the pressure testing and heard air escaping while putting pressure in.  I looked on the top of the toons and noticed stress cracks under the rear cross-braces.  I tried to plug those a bit with JB Weld so I could at least get some pressure in to check for other leaks.  Would those leaks on the top have allowed a ton of water to get in???

I'm starting to re-think whether I can successfully check for and fix those leaks or if I'll need to take to a professional.

Posted: 07/27/2009 at 1:19pm | IP Logged

kartracer28 had given me some of that stuff for testing and I just never did get around to it (one thing or another and then my knee problems). Thanks for the very good comparison test. What was the cost differences? Did you order it online? I know what Toon-Brite costs and can't remember off hand what Alum-Bright was.  As for the air pressure stuff, letting somebody with equipment to weld might be in order and no those hair line stress cracks shouldn't have let in all that water but anything is possible I suppose. Now with all that stuff off the frame where ease of access to all sides of the toons should keep the labor costs down some and make detecting leaks much easier (IMO anyways).

Posted: 07/27/2009 at 4:56pm | IP Logged

I was preparing for this long, drawn out scrubbing exercise but it was a piece of cake.  Now if the leak detection/repair would be that easy.

Has anyone ever taken them to a welder to get repaired?  I called the local shop I'm going to use and he couldn't quote me a price without seeing it and knowing the full situation.

Has anyone had their toons welded at a shop and could tell more your experience from a budget standpoint?  There are no obvious signs of holes/cracks but there may be pin-sized ones.

Posted: 07/27/2009 at 5:35pm | IP Logged

kartracer28 wrote: rickdb1,,, I do not think I would use the Alum Bright that is sold on the Gulf Coast LA, MS, FL,TX, for A/C coil cleaning. The percentage of Hydrofluoric and Phosphoric acid is much higher than coil cleaner.

There are several different type cleaners that will do the job. Personally I use a different brand (that is essentially the same as Alumabrite, but shall remain unnamed so as not to indicate that I am selling this product) because that's what I've always used. (The pink version in particular) Alum(a)brite goes under many different manufacturers and I've had good success with it too. Same stuff you buy at the auto parts store for use on wheels as you probably know. I'll try to remember to not use Alumabrite if I'm in the Gulf Coast..

Posted: 07/27/2009 at 5:41pm | IP Logged

I had about 20 cracks (from about 1/4 inch to 1 inch long) on my previous toon. All were where the deck brackets attached at the logs. I went around and marked all the spots I could find after testing under pressure and then we tested it again after he was done and found a few more. This was 15 years ago and if I recall it was about $125.00 or so and took him a couple hours. Probably at least double that now.

Posted: 07/28/2009 at 4:42pm | IP Logged

Hi there Bonedog     this is Christy from boatbuilderbob and boy do I remember that stage.  We didn't push any air in our toons as good advice from Wildcat Dude so wish us luck not to sink the first time in!!!   Bob noticed that where the brackets were welded to the toons there was cracking and he took them off completely and made plates and had them re-welded by a mobile guy. So you might want to go on Craiglist to see if someone has themself listed as a mobile welder. It cost us a couple hundered bucks and he was out about 2 1/2 to 3 hours.  Owners of the boat before us used the JB WELD    ugly job so Bob took it all off.  There is a welding place down in Sedalia off 285 and I know you know where that is and we will take it in to have a good look over on the bottom and the other welds that Bob didn't touch.   When we buffed up the toons we found that some of the 'stress cracks' were scratches so don't get discouraged.  You can fix the issues....might not be the prettiest thing to see but underneath the beautiful deck you won't notice......we had two holes in the bottom that BOB made patches for and the mobile guy welded on for us as well.   I think we will make it out to the Lake this weekend Chatfield  whohoooooooo!!!!!      

Now I used the toonbrite  and although not perfect I was happy with it    I didn't try the aluminum bright cause we were rebuilding our boat in our driveway and I didn't want acid to go down the street and the toonbrite was biodegradeable so I worked a little harder for the shine and  I still didn't get the water stains off of the toons but Chatfield is pretty nasty at the end of the summer so I am not going to kill myself....the water stains will be in the water anyway.   But what I noticed with the toonbrite is that after a couple of days of the job the toons became brighter and even more mirror finish    so maybe there is a delay in actually seeing it work.    Who knows, but it will be a good 'shine maintainer' for upkeep in the future.

Your question on the throttle box    Wildcate Dude is certainly correct there is no real way of putting it on the railing and it looking good     we tried it and it is ugly and if Bob hasn't removed it by the time I get home I will take a picture and post it to my blog so you can see    he is going to get a diamond plate and mount it to the plate.  We had to put a hole in between the seats and the railing in the back for the cable of the throttle to go back to the engine    and the piece that fits on the engine is huge so Bob is going to make a circular aluminum 'dressy' plate for me cause I was not happy about the hole.    And he is going to try to feed the steering underneath and combine it with the throttle cables ..... I think....you will find that I speak before I know 100% what he is going to do     or he will change things on me.

What was great with our rebuild is that one day it was all deck     and then bammo!!!!! it all came together at once cause you want the seats and the railing to all kinda go on together so everything fits w/out stress.   At least that is what we found out.  

****** DO NOT THROW ANYTHING HAVING ANY CONNECTION WITH THE CONTROLS AWAY

Remember that Wildcat Dude     lolololol   WOW    what a DUMBO move that was... lolololol.

Good luck!!!!!

Posted: 07/28/2009 at 4:46pm | IP Logged

OH    and by the way.....the frog looks like a small bullfrog like they have in NC...... and you will get warts from its secretions so BEEEEEEE   CAREFFUUUUULLLLLL.

The little green tree frogs are my favorite with their big sticky pads for feet    LOVE THEM...they used to sneak in our house in NC and I wouldn't tell my parents    I would keep them in my room and they would hang out in the corners next to the door frame.  Now that I think about it......not sure what ever happened to them    they would just disappear.  hmmmmmmm   We always had alley and tom cats     maybe they got them.  Oh that would be horrible. 

Posted: 08/01/2009 at 9:45am | IP Logged

I've been off the site for a few days trying to do my day job

I snuck out yesterday and took the boat to a local welder who specializes in aluminum/stainless welding.  He swears that the 4 stress cracks around the rear braces is the source of any water collection.  Turns out, he used to work for a pontoon manufacturer and had more to tell me about pontoons than I had time for.

He noted that my logs were in outstanding shape for being over 20 years old.  I dropped it off at 1:00 yesterday and he said it would be ready by Monday.  His shop was slow this week and has 5 employees that would all tag-team and ensure it's all taken care of.

I'm excited that this will likely quell my fear of getting on the water and having a slow leak sinking me.

I'm going to be out of commission for a couple of weeks but will start getting the decking on in the next coming week, followed by the carpet.  I've decided to paing my paneling and re-use it.  There's something about reusing the aluminum rather than replacing with vinyl.  Call is nostalgia I guess.  What I have to decide is what color to paint the panels.  I'm not sure if the gray will necessarily match the tan carpet and the cream/blue seats both from PS.

Take a look at my pictures and let me know what you think.  The only other color I can think of would be something close to the cream color of the seats.  It would certainly help any graphics/pinstriping I put on show up more.

Posted: 08/17/2009 at 3:05pm | IP Logged

I got the toon back from the local welding shop and was very impressed.  Since my boat had been sitting in the water for several years, the upper brackets had cracked several areas on top of the toons.  The waves banging it up against the dock really stressed them out.  He ended up not finding a single leak on the bottom of the toons.  They were all on top. 

For welding up 12 joints and adding a new transducer bracket to the rear, it cost me $170.  Not bad for 9 hours of work in my opinion.  Lots of soaping and pressure finding bubbles. 

When I got it back to the farm, I spent most of Saturday getting the new deck down.  It ended up being a little harder than I anticipated because I was trying to square it up while maintaining an equal distance from the end of each crossmember but I was WAY off.  I figured out that each member was not the same length so I used a square and came off the trim piece and it worked perfectly.

I then took on the task of the carpet with the help of my two daughters.  Needless to say, it was a one-man fiasco but we certainly had fun!

Next up is finishing the sanding of the panels then shooting them with enamel.  From there, I think I'm going to hit a budget limit for a while.  I'll need furniture, but I have a re-power in mind for the outboard as well.

Posted: 08/20/2009 at 7:44pm | IP Logged

Looking good...you are gonna love the carpet.  It dries real fast believe it or not...I should know with all of the rain we have gotten lately.  I sit in my front yard on the boat and party on it since we no longer have a motor and we can get on it the same day after we have had a downpour, so you will like that.  The hard part is almost over and it looks great so far!!!

Your little girls are so precious.

Posted: 08/21/2009 at 9:06pm | IP Logged

I've been spending my time in Dallas sanding my panels so I can get them painted.  That's taking longer than I'd hoped, but my day job has something to do with that.

I've also been very interested in repowering and have been scouring for a 90 hp Mercury so I can plug and play using my existing wiring harness and cables.  It's been near impossible to find something I like (late model) that I can also afford.  Man they're hard to come by!

I've also wrestled with 2 vs 4 stroke.  I've been on boats with both and I know the 4 strokes are much quieter, but are they twice the price quieter????