Don't have the time just yet, but thought I'd get it started since everyone at some point asks how to clean and polish those toons (including myself) as I've been after that mirror shine scbadiver obtained on his toons as some others have done the same. What I want from anyone who posts, is detailed instructions on how you got your shine. What problems did you have. What products did you use to get the shine (ToonBrite or similar, Gord's or Nuvite) - I listed those 3 because I've used all 3 with varying degrees of success (more on details later) and I've also used sanders (only as a last resort) - I got carried away - don't you do it (I've seen worse though but won't mention who) .  Please note, we want specific directions/details of your process, as this will be the guide to all others that follow in our footsteps, they need to understand what you did so they can choose the best course for them.

scbadiver, since you got the shine I've been striving to get, why don't you start it off (copy and paste if you wish), and remember some of the questions I was asking you during the rebuild of my boat. If anyone else has done a detail job (I know several of you have), feel free to do a detailed analysis as you can. Come back and edit your post if necessary as many times as necessary.

I started off with Toon Brite at the recommended mix, after 6 applications it just didn't seem to get as much of the hardline waterline stain I had to remove but it was a slow gradual process. Spray it on, wait 3-5 minutes (didn't want it drying) and hosed it off. Finally moved to full strength and that helped a lot more, 2 or 3 applications a day for several days but it still wasn't enough. Switched to what Lowes had and that was muractic acid. Tried 50/50 mix first and did a lot better, also got the acid proof spray bottles at Lowes (works too and still good), but still I wasn't happy at the speed of progress, so went full strength which helped but you've got to be very very careful wearing clothes you don't mind destorying to save your skin. That finally did enough to suit me. Next step was I tried Gord's polish. I liked it, but it just didn't give me the high shine I desired and it was definitely hard work. Seems to be a little difference on how to use this stuff as the directions seem to vary from the bottle to the video and to what others have done. I read and reviewed both a lot but used a buffer (automotive type). I used this method, I soaked the #0000 steel wool pad with Gords and worked an area 2ft square, then turned my buffer on it. It turned black and then eventually brigthened up, looking pretty decent. Some areas I had to use the red rags they supplied (or buy a big bundle of them at wally's world). It turned out my orbital 10in cordless buffer worked the best instead of the electric one (pad wouldn't spin much when any pressure was applied), cordless was almost the same. I still had some real rough area before the waterline, lots of pitting, scratches and some kind of marine growth (almost like coral) that didn't come off before. I've also tried CLR (sold just about everywhere) and it helped but still not enough. Now I was getting aggravated and took to the small sander and felt I was getting some results. But now after the fact, I think I made have gotten carried away with it too much using too course a grade in areas that didn't need it. Did fine on the real bad area to knock it down, but now wished I had used as fine as grade as possible (but I tend to get impatient with results). After talking to scbadiver about Nuvite, I sucked it up and ordered almost $80 of the stuff ($25 for Grade F9 Coarse, $25 for F7 for finer scratches and $25 for Grade S for the mirror SHINE). But still had problems getting the results, so a call to scbadiver solved that problem and he recommended Harbor Freights 7in polisher/sander along with a quantity of 5 wool pads and I also got a couple of the microfiber pads for the fine shine polish. Its an adjustable RPM type and I opted to get the more expensive one ($54 instead of $34 because being a techie I like digital readouts of my rpm). That did the trick. scbadiver had already told me about the 3 fingertip method of applying polish. One more warning - WEAR a dust mask and gloves and eye protection. On my first use of the wool pad it was like two cats having a free for all and somebody was gonna die the hair was flying whenever it hit an edge. Every now and then, Bear, my dog got tired of me working and wanted me to throw his football. Course I grab his face and hug him and all that and didn't really notice at first his face was getting blacker and blacker. Wife eventually comes out and says 'You need a bath', course she's always telling me that even though it isn't Saturday yet LOL. It wasn't until I took a latrine break (bathroom for you civilian types) that I understood what she meant. My throat and face look like I was a charcoal briskette including my shirt sleeves where I was rubbing my face. I knew my pants (jeans) was blackened and that tells ya how much metal was coming off. I'm not done with the F9 yet as I just finished the starboard side (3 hrs total) to where I like it to begin the F7 Nuvite grade treatment. With Gords I spent probably 10-15 hrs a side and had already ordered a quart bottle this time around for my 2nd order. I know it'll take me another 3 hrs for the port side, then going back over both sides with F7 which could be 3-6 more hours and then both sides with Grade S for that mirror shine. I'll be posting results in my rebuild as well as some choice pics of before and after.

Now, after having said all the above and learned (somewhat) from my mistakes, here's what I should have done. Used full strenght ToonBrite (or similar product) and scrub the affected area, or use AC coil cleaner (I haven't done this yet) if it doesn't effect your land use (someone mentioned they had a well on their property and didn't want the contanimation). Use of the sander ONLY as a last resort and use ONLY the finest grade possible. While slower it would leave the finish in that area without much scratches to deal with later. Scrub down the toons with a brush to remove any residue and remove any oils which might be left behind (good soapy solution and rinse). Nuvite in my opinion wins hands down but its expensive compared to Gords. But this is where it becomes a personal choice (in my opinion) on how much you want it to shine. Those of you with fairly new toons will only need F7 and Grade S (1/4 lb of each I would think, up to 20ft boats and its not too bad) or opt for Gords. Those with very old toons (like mine and scbadiver) might need more (so far I'm still working with half of my 1/4lb F9 left and ready to start on the port side). A good polisher I think is critical as Nuvite recommends a variable speed rpm buffer (7 in). I almost bought the $200 job HomeDepot had but thankfully scbadivers message came through in time. scbadiver bought this model 7' VARIABLE SPEED POLISHER/SANDER Chicago Electric Power Tools 92623-9VGA and I got the more expensive digital model 7' ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER KIT Chicago Electric Power Tools 90820-4VGA (all less than $60) and they were worth every penny of it. The wool hook/loop buffing pads were about $7 each (couldn't find them online at Harbor Freight, but they got them). Will add some before/after pics soon

Before I used Nuvite

Well, I think all the high-lights are covered. I would add that if you do an acid treament, with-in a day or two of the polishing, it makes it a LOT easier to polish. I prefered the a/c coil cleaner having tried them all (including toilet bowl cleaner. I certainly DO NOT recommend that).

If using the Nuvite remember a little goes a loooong way. Watch the video on the Nuvite website before you do it and do apply it sparingly. If you get too much it just makes a black smeary mess you have to wipe off and start over. Ask me how I know that..

Do a small section at a time. I did about a 2 foot long area, top to bottom of the log. It seemde to be about the right size. Yours may be a tad bigger or smaller. That size worked for my arm length swinging the buffer back and forth and up and down. I wouldn't do much bigger though as you don't want the polish to dry on the log.

I also noted it worked better when it was a little warmer. I'd say really 55-60 degrees or warmer. I couldn't get it to flow and polish when it was any cooler than that. Perhaps you would have better luck but I didn't have any at all.

Make sure you use a lower speed buffer and you have a hook and loop or equavilent atttachment of the buff. The ones that just tie on to a pad will slip around when you apply any pressure and do nothing.  

Again, speaking in terms of using Nuvite, as that is what I used, I ended up using about 2-3 times(or a little more) of the F7 than the fine S. The S goes much further and more quickly and I used hardly any at all to get the mirror look I wanted.

Overall, make sure you have cleaned the logs well before you start with any polish. Get all the organic debris, algae, mud etc off, and after the acid etch, wash the entire thing with soap and water. No need to dry it but you may. Just make sure it is all dry before you start polishing.

I'm usually around if you have specific questions. Post them here and we'll keep this all together for future reference for everybody to able to easily find it.

Tools scbadiver and I used (and recommend), post was copied from my rebuild section.

I'm still progressing slowly but after talking to scbadiver about what he used in the way of a buffer/polisher, I discovered my problem (sort of). First, I ordered what he said he used - NuVite and it does as advertised but the trick is not to use much at all - 3 fingertips (spots) over about 1-2 ft square. The pictures I'm posting is part of what I've done with the F9 grade (coarse grade). But I had to ditch the cheapie auto buffer polishers. Harbor Freight once again comes through (scbadiver bought this polisher which was on sale for $34.99 but I opted for a slightly more expensive one

View more Chicago Electric Power Tools items

7' VARIABLE SPEED POLISHER/SANDER

Comes with 7'' hook and loop backing pad, foam pad, 60 and 240 grit sanding discs, terry towel, polishing bonnet; 120V motor, 60 Hz, 9.8 amps

ITEM 92623-9VGA

$49.99 

and this is what I decided to buy and by adding $5 more I get to replace it any time for any reason (so I thought it was worth it)

View more Chicago Electric Power Tools items

7' ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER KIT

Strong 9.8 amp, soft-start motor and electronic variable speed give you the power and control that you need for professional polishing and sanding.

• 1000 to 3000 RPM for optimum polishing
• Easy-to-read LCD display
• All ball and needle bearing construction for long life
• Side handle

Comes with two bonnets (one woven and one terry cloth), foam pad, rubber backing pad, 80 grit hook and loop sanding disc and flat wrench.; 120V, 9.8 amps peak, 5/8'' x 11 TPI arbor, Spindle lock
Weight: 6.60 lbs.

ITEM 90820-4VGA

$54.99 

I wasn't sure on the first model how you determined the RPM setting, but with the digital readout, you can dial it in before you turn it on and Nuvite works best between 1000-2000 rpm (I work it between 1400-1700). Does a bang up job and doesn't bother my bad arm very much even though its heavier, it has a more naturally hold which puts less stress on the right arm (my bad one). Anywho, here's a couple of pics of the starboard toon, its almost half done with F9 grade (then it'll be F7 then Grade S for the shine). Look at the prior pictures where I was using sandpaper and Gord's and you should see a BIG difference and it was a lot less work.

WD,

When the bonnet loads up with the black stuff, how do you handle it?  Mine would only do about a 2 foot section and then would be packed with nothing but the black stuff.  Caked on thick.  What did you do at that point?  Of course, I was using BriteMax.  Maybe the Nuvite doesn't create the black stuff.

What Wildcat said is correct. A screwdriver or the end of an old file works well to clean the buff. BUT, be careful. Drag it aross gently and don't shove it in the buff against the rotation, it will pull it out of your hand. Just drag it across and it will clean it. Also, if it got that caked up in 2 feet, you are probably using WAY TOO  MUCH compound, regardless of what kind. I could do several sections before a had to lightly clean mine.  There is a definite learning curve to the whole polishing thing but it easy enough to learn it quickly. Afte a few messes and mistakes you will end up with a shiny spot and say, 'now I've got it'!

Ok, I admit to 'shine envy' and am considering whether I have time and energy to tackle the mirror finish on the logs.  But - that takes second priority to the railings, the complete rebuild, and to living a 'somewhat normal' life.

Three Questions:

1. About how many hours does it take to create the mirror log shine afer completing the acid wash?  (I did just order the Harbor Freight 7' Polisher - and have 24' logs)

2. I am experimenting with my railing gates to learn the best way to do the 'miles of rail'.  0000 wire wool did almost nothing and wire wool dipped in ToonBright polish - hand rubbed - was only barely faster.  I tried medium steel wool with some improvement and finally found that 320 sandpaper was knocking the rims off the dings in my rail.  (better - but still not good)  The guy at HomeDepot (ex Navy) convinced me to try a can of Brasso - and that does remove the grime and oxidation - but still doesn't touch the ding pits or scratches - and it will take a lot to do 56 linear feet of railing!  I haven't tried acid wash on the railings yet.  Is the acid wash going to be my answer?

3. Once I have a shine on the railings - I don't want to lose it!  Is there any practical difference in ToonBright ClearCoat and SharkHide?  And - if I elect not to do the mirror logs this year and go ahead and put on the sealer - what will it take to get the sealer off to do a mirror shine in 1 or 2 years when I have 'recovered' from the rest of the rebuild?

Thanks for any insights.  I'll be posting my rebuild story in the Forum in the next day or two.