Posted: 10/31/2009 at 8:26pm | IP Logged

Hello to all.  Enjoy this forum and all who contribute.  We'll do our best to be good members.

We purchased a 1987 Lowes 20 ft Fish and Fun this past spring.  Came with a Tohatsu 30 HP that has run well.  We dropped it in Forrest Lake outside of Kirksville and she stayed in the water until a week ago.  No trailer so local marina pulled her, took motor off and winterized it.  Put motor on a stand I built as a result of digging for info from this forum.  A local Marina has performed a pontoon acid wash and it has helped.  But the toons  are still very rough with build up below the water line. Calcium? 

We will put it in a rented bldg next week. I,plan to work on it this winter.  The plywood and carpet are both failing.  The seats are tired and their wood bases are in sad shape.  So - following is planned:

1.  Redeck

2.  New carpet

3. Work on the logs

4.  New seats and console

5.  Add porta potti and privacy enclosure

6.  Other items along the way.  Yes a new transom is a first item

I will have a few questions as I work.  I’ll try to find answers first via searches, etc. if I can.  My first question is, Is fiberglas covering over marine plywood deck necessary, or more additional protection?


Mike

***resize pics to 800x600 for best viewing***

Posted: 11/01/2009 at 8:17pm | IP Logged

Wildcat Dude wrote:   You did a good job on the pics, some of our members take a while before they get the hang of the text, pic spacing (especially adding text between pics), but I won't say who (brian)

I resemble that remark  I don't know if I can do the text/picture thing yet.

Posted: 02/17/2010 at 6:14pm | IP Logged

adakops wrote: There are aluminum and plastic fence risers.  Any preference?  Higher clearance is better?

     Higher ones from my experience is for thicker carpet as they would tend to sink in more and you want the water to flow out cleanly. Thinner the carpet, the shorter the size. As for one or the other as to type, no preference there.

adakops wrote: Any source for switch panels other than the auction site, GLSkipper or EZACDC?  I’m looking for wood grain plastic units.  EZACDC is very nice and very pricey.  I like the big console sold by Pontoon Stuff.  Wonder if additional rocker switches can be obtained to add to the four they sell on the full rigged console.

      Rocker switches can be obtained if not by PontoonStuff then by others - I think my rebuild mentions where I got the two rocker switches but EZACDC did mention to me last year they were going to make individual rockers available although I haven't seen it listed separately yet - Contact PontoonStuff and see if they might have an update on that. If not, holler again and I'll look up who I got my switches from and others will too.

adakops wrote: Are come-alongs normally used to pull decking together or just on those with channels to slide the deck panels into?

   Didn't use come-alongs on mine, they just laid on top, as for the H channel types, should only have to use a rubber mallet to tap them in or use a 2x2 or something to distribute the whacking power  but I'll bow to those that have done it on H channels.

adakops wrote: Start the new deck install from the front or the rear?

   front after you aligned the frame in the X factor, we have guidelines on that in the rebuild section, you measure again in an X fashion every time to make sure you have the frames aligned within 1/16th of an inch (at least 1/8th).

adakops wrote: When removing old deck screws and all else fails grinding off flush and leaving the stub below seems to be one method (this assumes unable to center drill the old and ezouts fail, etc.).  Then are all holes for the new deck drilled from above without regard to where the old deck screws were?  Or go under and drill a small pilot from the bottem for each one?

  Neither, grind off the head, remove the board and then grind it off flush with the cross member if you can't remove it with vice grips. Once you grind it flush, it won't matter where you drill. The new screws are almost twice as large - you need a really good drill driver but that baby will pull the wood down tight.

adakops wrote: Gluing up transom plywood.  Epoxy glue is best, yes?  And is Epoxy same as marine adhesive, if it says Marine Epoxy?  Lay on several strips in critical places (near all edges and through middles) or completely coat between plywood sections?  I'll put in SS screws as well as severly clamp the sections to cure. What kind of resin to coat the transom? Same as in auto fiberglas repair kits?

  scbadiver or somebody will chip in on what they used on mine, I didn't watch them on that.

adakops wrote: Last question for now - has anyone used 3/4 B-B plyform for a new deck?  Its a plywood used for concrete form work, has minimal or no voids and is water resistant due to an exterior oil treatment.  Glue adhearance may be an issue.  Just looking to save dollars.

don't go cheap here, you'll regret it later when the glue won't hold, carpet gets rolls in it, etc etc. Oil based NOT good for carpet adherence to the floor. Seems to me that would be really slick when wet.