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Subject Topic: adakops 1987 Lowes Fish-N-Fun rebuild Post ReplyPost New Topic
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adakops
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Posted: 10/31/2009 at 8:26pm | IP Logged Quote adakops

Hello to all.  Enjoy this forum and all who contribute.  We'll do our best to be good members.

We purchased a 1987 Lowes 20 ft Fish and Fun this past spring.  Came with a Tohatsu 30 HP that has run well.  We dropped it in Forrest Lake outside of Kirksville and she stayed in the water until a week ago.  No trailer so local marina pulled her, took motor off and winterized it.  Put motor on a stand I built as a result of digging for info from this forum.  A local Marina has performed a pontoon acid wash and it has helped.  But the toons  are still very rough with build up below the water line. Calcium? 

We will put it in a rented bldg next week. I,plan to work on it this winter.  The plywood and carpet are both failing.  The seats are tired and their wood bases are in sad shape.  So - following is planned:

1.  Redeck

2.  New carpet

3. Work on the logs

4.  New seats and console

5.  Add porta potti and privacy enclosure

6.  Other items along the way.  Yes a new transom is a first item

I will have a few questions as I work.  I’ll try to find answers first via searches, etc. if I can.  My first question is, Is fiberglas covering over marine plywood deck necessary, or more additional protection?


Mike

***resize pics to 800x600 for best viewing***



Edited by Wildcat Dude on 10/31/2009 at 8:53pm


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briankinley2004
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Posted: 10/31/2009 at 8:56pm | IP Logged Quote briankinley2004

I think the fiberglass would add more weight than protection. I would think with a 30HP you would want the boat as light as possible. Good luck on your rebuild. Looks like you have a good foundation to work with!

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Posted: 10/31/2009 at 9:02pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

You're going to give multiple applications of coil cleaner or some kind of acid on those toons. If you had a trailer, I'd put that toon back into the lake and let it soak for 48hours then put it out and take it immediately to a place with a high pressure wash wand to or have a covey of kids with putty knifes scraping most of that off while its soft. Looks like the rest of it you pretty much got covered. Now this looks like a rebuild project, so if it is, just lets us know and we'll move it in there.     I had to laugh a little about your statement 'the floor and carpet are failing'. I'd say the carpet has way past failed .  When you get the redeck kit, get an extra sheet of ply as you can use that to build the transom piece with. As for fiberglass, don't do that. If you get the redeck kit from PontoonStuff, its CCA treated and it'll take care of itself. It's not going to absorb water for a very long time. (the carpet will wear out first).  Also the best time to work on those crusty toons is when you have everything stripped off, it'll be far easier to work on then.

Edited by Wildcat Dude on 10/31/2009 at 9:11pm


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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 6:32am | IP Logged Quote Tooner

Hey Mike, You have your self a nice little project there good luck. as for fiberglass don't think you need just new plywood and carpet you would be set to go....

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adakops
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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 5:55pm | IP Logged Quote adakops

Thanks for the info on fiberglas.  That was my thought also but had seen someone adding a layer of glas on their deck.

This will be more of a project and refurbish than a picture show.  So feel free to move WCD.  Tried to do a better resize on these pics also.

The pics here show the result of at least two treatments with acid cleaning and fresh water wash off.  The prominent, slightly brown crusty stuff will scrape off, so a little effort will help remove them.  And they are worse on inside and rear of toons than outside.  But beneath this stuff is a considerably rougher surface than above the obvious waterline.  Is this rough surface correctable with sanding, more acid cleaning, Nuvite, or another material.  I’ve read most of the toon cleaning topics here but thought I’d ask for some clarification on best way to go forward.

I’ll try to improve my sig stuff (current lack of) before next post.

Mike













Edited by Wildcat Dude on 11/08/2009 at 7:33am


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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 6:39pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Ok, got your thread moved to the rebuild section. Now regarding your toons, I see something in the bottom 2 pics that has me concerned. May not be nothing, but I need you to look really, really close as it seems to be a hairline crack from the top to the bottom of that inside starboard toon. I'd keep treating it several more times as its starting to look pretty good to the point where you could do some very light sanding (VERY LIGHT with FINE GRIT), don't do like I get and get sander happy. Now keep in mind that you won't get it near as smooth as the top half and yes I'd go with Nuvite (F9 then move down gradually). Also be sure to wear something over your face as you will get BLACK from head to toe and it WILL get up your nose if you don't wear protection. That rub rail looks odd being that color white , but the rest looks like a normal process and it'll get whiter as time goes (and polishing it will be easier).  You'll have pitting to some degree, so don't try to sand the pits out. If you look at scbadiver's and my rebuild, we both had a good amount of deep pitting even though from a distance its not very obvious.  You did a good job on the pics, some of our members take a while before they get the hang of the text, pic spacing (especially adding text between pics), but I won't say who (brian)

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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 6:43pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

So how long are you renting this building for? (for the rebuild). I still haven't done the inside of my toon yet, but yours had a considerable more buildup than mine did, so getting the vast majority of the crud off will help with your performance and saving gas. However with a 30hp, you could go a couple of days compare to my couple of hours on my motor . (see the Arkansas Forum Get-Together), course me running out of gas had a lot to do with underskin damage catching water and slowing me down (A LOT).   Couse now I've got full underskinning (except for 1st 2ft or less)

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adakops
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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 7:54pm | IP Logged Quote adakops

Thanks WCD.

Is the hairline crack just right (or left) of the vertical weld?  I’ll look good tomorrow.  Appreciate the feedback on further cleaning.  I was about ready to grab some sand paper.  And its good to know that the lower will not be smooth as the upper again.  I might have gotten really carried away.  Now it makes me wonder just how smooth some of the toons were in the cleaning and polishing pics I found via search function on the forum.

I’m renting a space on a monthly basis.  I hope to be ready to get back on the water by April.  Get antsy if on dry land too long.  But rental space is unheated metal 24 x 13 by 13 high!  Problem will be enough warmth to get a good glue set for the carpet.  And as you all already know,  the fence, seats, etc., follow the carpet.  Since I work alone most of the time, it won’t go fast  after carpet.

Mike



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briankinley2004
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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 8:17pm | IP Logged Quote briankinley2004

Wildcat Dude wrote:
  You did a good job on the pics, some of our members take a while before they get the hang of the text, pic spacing (especially adding text between pics), but I won't say who (brian)

 

I resemble that remark  I don't know if I can do the text/picture thing yet.



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Posted: 11/01/2009 at 8:25pm | IP Logged Quote Wildcat Dude

Hairline crack I see is where the end cap is welded on. It might not be, it could be just a shadow, but its very noticeable. As for heating that building, any one of these will do the job, but you might need 2 tanks of gas to get it to set and dry (lower the temp, long it'll take for the glue to dry out s its water based). http://www.heatershop.com/forced_air_propane_heaters.html. Brain, I didn't think you read the details  

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Posted: 11/02/2009 at 11:27am | IP Logged Quote dahogman

I agree with others and would not apply resin to the decking.  I would apply it to the transom.  I would use marine CCA treated plywood for the transom.  I would use marine adhesive and stainless steel screws and laminate the pieces together.  Allow the pieces to dry for a couple of days and then apply a couple of good coats of resin.  I applied two coats on the front and back of mine and 4 coats on the edges.  Drill all of your holes before applying resin that way you can get resine in the bolt holes also.  When you install the transom squeeze some RTV silicone in the holes and then slide bolts thru while twisting them to help distribute the silicone.  Use Stainless steel bolts and washers and your new transom should last a good many years.  Pics of my transom

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adakops
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Posted: 11/02/2009 at 3:21pm | IP Logged Quote adakops

Thanks dahogman.  I had seen your transom before during a search of the site a few weeks ago.  The review just now was good and I appreciate the narrative.

Looked at the rear toon this AM for a possible crack.  I think it is a shadow from and next to the weld.  The Marina folks are going to check it for me also.  I'll update with the result.

Marina folks told me the toons had not been cleaned in a long time.  Looks like fun and games this winter.

Mike


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